Iceland

Iceland, part 5; wrapping things up

So, the last day had arrived. The weather was still doing its thing. After we had eaten breakfast and taken down our tents (some managed to do it the other way around), we discussed the plans of the day. It was pretty straight forward; do the hill climb that we didn't do the day before, and head back towards Reykjavik.

This hill was considerably smaller than the last one, but offered some nice views anyway. Halfway up I took this:

Apparently we ruffled some feathers; this little guy kept shouting at us at the top.

The weather being what it was, black-and-white made most sense. And boy, were there images to be had. I'd rate this higher than the first hill we climbed, by far. Or maybe it was just the considerably easier climb :)

Yeah. One of the best photographs from the entire trip.

Hill detail.

Tight section from the first image; simple, but effective. The cloudy hilltop makes the image.

Although I ended up doing a lot of black-and-white, some of the color shots worked out well too.

Panorama, because why not.

Flat, smooth hill, ragged hill, weather. Layers and layers.

As there was no hurry anywhere, we spent quite some time up on the hill, searching for compositions. I think we were all glad just to take it easy and try different things; at least I was pretty drained at this point. Don't get me wrong, I liked the views very much, but I was ready to go home. Eventually, we did head downwards to the van. Some of you might have noticed that we weren't that far from camp. We weren't, but we took the van anyway; tells a tale about the state of the group, doesn't it. Anyway, once down the hill, we noticed two riders coming down along the road. They probably saw us, and decided to take the scenic route.

On the way down.

Horsies!

After that, we packed up the remainder of our things and started the journey back. We did stop by a crater lake on the way, but the inevitable rain ruined that for me, so the above is my last photograph from thew trip. Well, second to last:

Yes, weather, screw you too.

I did manage to snag an emergency row seat on the flight back, which was nice. Once on the plane I finally had some me-time to think about the trip (the whole morning after the hotel in Reykjavik, bus ride, baggage drop and boarding was crazy hectic). I still had no clue if I had any good images. I was very, very tired. I also realized I only saw the sun once the plane got above the clouds; somehow, we had gone the whole week without seeing it.

Was the whole thing worth it, you may ask? Monetary, no. Even without the photo workshop itself, Iceland is a very expensive country. Weather-wise, maybe. Better weather would have produced better pictures, more locations, and more activities (we didn't get to use the kayaks, for instance). But then again, many of the photos I have work exactly because of the weather. Clear blue skies would have been worse, but I could have done with some dry in between.

For the photos, then? After spending a few weeks looking at them, definitely. As I mentioned in the last post, I was skeptical before I could see them on the big screen. I've always had trouble visualizing the final product while seeing the image in the back of the camera. Luckily, I seem to have developed good instincts on what works and what doesn't. That will help me to not stress about things out in the field in the future.

Finally, was it worth it for the experience? Yes. A hundred times yes. Iceland has been on my bucket list since before I started taking pictures, let alone photographs. Although much of the landscape looks like other mountainous areas, such as Norway, there is just something about Iceland that makes it unique. Having a dedicated guide was so convenient; many of the locations are not on tourist maps. Even though it turned out I didn't ask Tom for much advice in the end, I still learned a lot by just watching him work and giving advice to the others. Tom actually said "Sorry I'm not spending a lot of time with you; it's not that I don't like you, its just it looks like you don't need it.". To me, that's quite the praise. We still had a few good bits of discussion.

The trip did clarify a lot of things for me, personally and photographically. I'm more confident. I'm more methodological. I'm taking things slower, thinking things through. All of those things are what I knew I wasn't very good at before. I'm slowly learning. I can't wait for my next trip, I already have some ideas.

Iceland, part 4; magical unicorn land

So, recap so far; a bit of sun on Monday, and a lot of wind and rain for two days after that. On Thursday morning, we finally caught a break.

The picture probably tells most of the story. We arrived as the clouds were starting to go pink. Even though we didn't see the actual sun, there was a break in the clouds in the correct spot on the horizon, and the color just got better and better as all of us were firing away. The morning light lasted for about half an hour, but it was all we needed. The moment was simply magical.

Tighter crop. Still awesome.

After the sunrise we finally went to bed, it was 4:30 am at that point. After a good sleep, we woke up for the last full day of the trip. We had plans for two hikes; one through the lava flow and out into the flat meadow we walked by the first day, the second up another hill nearby. As it wasn't raining (much) I went out to take a few images I was waiting to take since day one; the weather had gotten in the way previously.

Same pic as last night, with more light.

Green stone? Sure.

The two hills we climbed the first evening.

Three of us had already seen the lava fields earlier, but we had turned to a different direction just after it. Now we ventured out onto the plain, crossing small streams as we went. Some of them were pretty deep, and some of them were boiling.

View back to the camp from the lava field.

The little patch was boiling ferociously; what better way to remind us we were over active lava.

I have many pictures of the streams and the sand, but this one and the following are my favorites. I was just about to shout 'don't step in the ...'. I'm glad she did.

Some had a better stream-crossing tactic than others.

I should have put more time into this picture (long exposure pun intended).

We headed for the waterfall above, which turned out to be bigger than it looked. We spent some time at it, a few people climbing the rocks on the left side to see if there was a composition to be found. Afterwards, we headed to another ravine a bit further in; this one had steam vents on both sides. It looked very Icelandic. On the way, we got distracted and had to stop briefly when we saw a S-curve in the rivers. Landscape photographers do love their S-curves :)

Tom doing some filming.

Them curves.

More curves! More!

This small canyon was quite the sight.

There was still a slight drizzle in the air as the clouds moved around the nearby hills. When shooting the small canyon, we only had to turn around to see this:

Sheep for scale :)

All in all, we were out for about for hours; I was soaked, sweaty and tired. And we still had one hike to go. We headed back to the camp site and made some burgers, discussing this and that. The weather hadn't gotten any better, and there was zero chance for a nice sunset or sunrise, again. We decided to move the hike to the next morning and get a good nights sleep, since the view from the destination would look the same at sunrise or noon because of the cloud cover.

The burgers and change of plans left me in a better mood, and I noticed I wasn't that tired anymore (we had gotten up very late, after all). So I walked up and down the riverbank to see if there was any angle I'd missed from before, just in case.

I was drawn to the symmetry here.

Again, S-curves :)

After an hour or so, I went to bed tired; the next day would be our last. I was sick of the constant rain. We hadn't seen the sun since Monday morning. And although we had gotten an amazing sunrise, I wasn't sure if I had any good pictures yet. Not having my laptop to check the images was beginning to eat on me.

As you can see, I shouldn't have been worried. But I was. I fell asleep hoping for some sun, but mostly hoping I'd get back home, to a warm, dry bed.

Iceland, part 3; some well deserved rest

After our long journey around Hekla we took a well-deserved break at a local restaurant. They also had some power available, so while waiting for our food, we took the opportunity to charge some of our gear. Those with laptops had a look at some of the photos they had gotten so far. The storm kept on pounding; and while there were occasional gaps in the rain, it was still quite windy, so we stayed inside for a few hours.

At around eight in the evening we headed out again. The rain had mostly stopped (at least at the restaurant), so Thor and Thomas decided we'd go to a nearby waterfall, followed by the crater we saw earlier, to see if we could catch some of the moody storm clouds. While not the most picturesque waterfall in the world, being able to shoot anything was welcome at this point.

Black and white, of course.

Another angle.

Unfortunately, the wind was still very strong at the crater, and there was still occasional rain; we didn't really want to spend a lot of time there. A few of us walked around the complete rim of the crater (two-three hundred meters maybe) to try to find some compositions, but it was tricky. The views were nice, but the weather and light made everything look flat and wet. I tried to concentrate on the colors and lines, but didn't get anything super special sadly.

Red rock is the crater, black is a nearby hill. The red gravel was super weird.

Almost the same spot, but looking left down the slope. 

The first weather forecast had said that the storm would let up during the evening. It hadn't. On our way back to the camping area the rain kept coming. On the plus side, the wind had let up slightly, so at the camp site we had a choice; either go out in the rain and wind and set up the tents in the dark (it was around one o'clock in the night at this point), or cuddle up in the camper van for the night. I have to say, I've never seen people setting up tents so fast.

Even though it rained through the night and the wind was flapping the tent around, I slept like a baby. Good thing I had earplugs and a sleeping mask. After waking up late in the morning (the forecast said no chance for a nice sunrise, and it was right) we walked around a bit to survey the damage to the camp. It was bad. A lot of tents were ruined. There was water everywhere. People were sleeping on the floor in the smelly showers/bathrooms. As an upcoming video of Tom's will say: 'Welcome to hell'.

Photo from the relative dryness of the van. Didn't take pictures of the carnage itself, it just felt wrong. By the way, the camper in front? The rain got into both sleeping alcoves, meaning Tom and Thor both had a wet night. My tent was excellently dry.

Sigh. Can't this just stop, please?

Luckily for us, Thor knew exactly what the situation called for. After a late breakfast (would have been a late lunch, even), we packed ourselves into the van again and headed for a swimming pool. With hot tubs. The pools were outside, and it was raining slightly, but no one cared. The water was hot, so were the showers, and the pool had big floaty devices that we responsible adults had a lot of fun with.

Still, the fun had to end, so we exchanged one type of hot water for another. We headed to the geyser called Geysir. Yes, this is the one that gave all of them their name. I've never seen a geyser before, so I had really no idea what to expect. It was quite something, though.

Those people got wet as the geyser shot up about 15-20 more meters.

Good compositions were hard to find.

The geyser was the smaller of two, but was still quite impressive. The bigger one has been quiet for a few years; this is normal when volcanic activity shakes the area and closes some vents for the water. It might start erupting after the next volcano, it might not. The smaller one kept us entertained, however. It erupted every 6 or 7 minutes, plenty of time to walk around, re-position, and try different shots. 

I found that the nicest shots were from the early eruption; just after the water bubble forms, becomes turquoise, and explodes upward. Catching it was tricky though, and I missed a few eruptions because I was looking at other things. After the bubble forms on the surface, you have less than a second to take your shot.

Probably my favourite.

Just a tad closer... (with a longer lens, obviously. You don't want to get physically closer).

The whole area was covered in hot vents like this.

I think we spent more than an hour at the geyser before deciding to move out once again. And when we did, an amazing thing happened. The clouds started to part. We were all mesmerized by the cloud formations while Thor and Tom desperately tried to find a place we could stop and shoot the stunning cloud formations. 

Pic from inside the van. The clouds were moving very, very fast, and this only lasted for about five minutes.

Stopping at the roadside to take a quick (and terrible) picture of Hekla.

As fast as the gaps appeared, they went away. We hadn't found a place to get a good image. I'm sure that I speak for everyone in the group when I say we were disappointed. But to be honest, there wasn't much we could do. The clouds only lasted for a few minutes, and we were in a very flat part of the scenery with nothing except the clouds. It would have taken a miracle to find a good spot. Sometimes, shit happens.

After the cloud gaps had disappeared, Thor took us to a waterfall just in case we'd get a nice sunset. The same waterfall we were at the first day, actually, so you get to compare images. I'm not sure, but I think I prefer the earlier one. We didn't get a sunset, of course.

First, the obligatory panorama.

A bunch of landscape photographers in a line. Note the wind and rainproof clothing...

The day was pretty much done, but there was a bonus; on the way to camp, there was a tiny unnamed waterfall that we stopped at. It was almost midnight, but photographers be photographers...

We got back to camp around an hour after midnight. But this was no time for sleep, oh no. We fired up the barbecue(s) and made ourselves some dinner. The plan was to see if the clouds would clear for sunrise, only three hours later. With nothing else to do while Tom and Thor cooked, I decided to take a picture of the riverbed next to the camper. 

01:11 am.

The dinner was amazing, it was exactly what was needed. We sat around in the camper discussing random things and having fun. As for the sunrise, Thor had an ace up his sleeve for the location if everything would work out. And boy, did it. Ever seen waterfalls with a pink sky? We did. And in the next post, so will you :)