lofoten

Senja and Lofoten, part 9: Hamnøy and exploring southeast

In the second post of this series, I talked about putting in the effort. As landscape photographers, it is almost mandatory if you want to get those once in a lifetime shots. Sure, you can get lucky and get the perfect conditions at the perfect location (the storm clouds over mountains a few posts ago is an example of just that), but for consistency, you have no choice but to do the work, set the alarm, and get out of bed.

That said, I'm horrible at it. On this trip, there were multiple mornings where I should have gone out, but didn't; many times I'm a lazy man, even with things I know I'd enjoy once I get going. This particular morning however, I didn't have a choice. I had two mornings to go before heading back to Finland. If the weather wasn't on my side this day, I'd only have one backup morning. So, at 4:30 in the morning, I started my drive to Hamnøy.

Of course, I wasn't alone. Hamnøy is the defining photo of the Lofoten islands, and I counted around 30 other people on the bridge with me. I was one of the earlier ones so I could pick my spot. We all lined up, set up, and waited.

45 minutes to go.

If I'd sell my stuff I guess this one would be called the money maker. Then again, I know for a fact that 30 people have the same image, so...

The sky eastward slowly got brighter and brighter, lighting the horizon a lovely pink and orange. Then, there it was, the first light hitting the peak, a lovely pink spreading around the cliff face. I took my shot, double-checked it, re-framed, and shot again. Two images, slightly different, and both absolutely worth it to wake up for.

But I wasn't done. While most people were staying on the bridge, shooting that scene, I packed my stuff and walked up a small hill close by that I'd scouted the day before. I had gotten an idea for a shot; something I could use as a background for my emails, to remind me of where I had been. Something simple. Something that showcased this wondrous place. I knew just what to shoot, and I had the perfect weather for it.

View northward from the hill. You don't have to look closely if you don't want to. But if you do, you see the small detail, such as the fishing boats. This photograph brings a smile to my lips each time I see it; it's not perfect by any means, but it means the world to me.

After that, I was done. I had gotten the photo I came to Lofoten for, and a great bonus on top of that. It had been a superb morning. While driving back, the landscape got brighter and brighter as the sun rose. I tried a few locations on the road back, but they would have worked better at sunrise. Didn't bother me though, not one bit.

Not the best I'd seen, but not bad.

After breakfast I decided to explore the final direction I hadn't been to yet, the southern part of Vestvågøy, the island I was staying on. The reason I had left it for last was that the maps didn't promise a lot of amazing views. I mean it isn't bad by any means, but it just isn't as dramatic as the drive south. 

Possible sunrise location for the last morning, but OK mid-day too.

Ballstad harbor.

Mountaintop detail.

Same mountain from the other side of the bay.

I continued my drive along the coast, trying to find images, but also just enjoying the scenery. As expected, it wasn't as dramatic as the previous days, but the weather as great so I didn't mind. On the way, I found a small installation of fish drying, nestled in by a small leisure harbor. I really do wonder why the birds don't eat all of the fish, since there is nothing to protect them, they just hang there:

Dried fish, anyone?

I didn't count them.

I mean, there were plenty of crows and eagles around, I'd think they'd treat the display as an all-you-can-eat buffet. I don't know, maybe the local birds prefer more sportsmanlike behavior. But speaking of eagles, guess what I photographed during my lunch?

I really do miss being able to take close-ups of these majestic birds.. Although we do have white-tailed eagles in the Turku archipelago too, they are mostly very shy and don't come nearly as close as this. At least if, you're not being sneaky, which I really wasn't, eating my bag of food at the top of a mountain pass.

After lunch I finished my drive round to Stamsund; not really much to report there. That particular area has forest by the road and coast, so you can't really see much of anything while driving. My mind was quickly moving to where I was planning to take the sunset image of the day, Uttakleiv Beach. Uttakleiv is one of the iconic beaches in Lofoten and is right next to Haukland Beach where I had been earlier. Getting there was no problem; finding a composition with more than a hundred other photographers was.

I'm not super happy with what I got, to be honest. There were too many people around and I couldn't really concentrate on the image. After I took this, I wanted to see if I could find something else, but it was no use. The beach was full of tourists and the light was disappearing fast; another storm was heading our way and it covered most of the horizon, blocking the final phase of the sunset. I stayed on the beach for a good hour after I took the image above, just taking in the view. I knew it was probably going to be the last sunset image I took during the trip. It turns out I was right.

Senja and Lofoten, part 8: The most incredible place

When you read 'Lofoten Islands in winter', what do you think of? Mountains? Snow? Ice? Fjords? Small fishing villages? I thought of all of those, and more. To actually be there was a dream come true. On the third day in Lofoten, I drove southwards toward the end of the islands. The weather had calmed considerably from the days before. And even though there was a bit of cloud on the sky, it was that nice sort of cloud that just looks great. Even though my drive southward was only about 1 hour long, it took me about three times that.

Behind the red shed, the little outcrop, was where I took the sunset image you can see in the previous post.

And in the other direction, my trusty, thirsty steed. Wherever you look around these parts, there is a pointy mountain.

I mean, come on!

So yeah, I stopped along the way. A lot. But can you really blame me? I just do not have the words to describe my feelings on this day. I was in paradise. Lofoten is unlike any place I've ever been in, and to be able to see and experience it during a day like this was just... incredible. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Crystal clear.

Bridges to Fredvang.

After many, many stops I finally got to Hamnøy for the scouting. It didn't take me long to find the location I was looking for.

Either this...

...or this. I'd choose the final one next morning.

While I was here, I took the opportunity to walk around to see if there were other shots to be had. I knew where I'd have to be the next morning, but there might still be some hidden gems somewhere. 

This guy had the right idea. But what is he taking a photo of?

Ah, yes.

View south-west.

View south-east towards the mainland. This actually gave me an idea that bore fruit the next morning.

Locals.

I wandered around for an hour or so, watching the sea, boats and birds, and just enjoying the views. I was getting hungry though, so it was time for another delicious Outdoor Deluxe Meal. The location this time was Djupfjorden, that has a convenient parking spot built on a scenic position. I took a photo of the small fjord itself, and then settled down for my lunch. The eagles the day before were on my mind, so before I did anything with the portable stove, I strapped on my birding setup. Just in case.

Small and cozy. I'd love to take a photo that would show the scale of the place, but there just is no way to do it from this vantage point.

I sat on the ledge that you can see above, looking out towards the sea (behind me in this shot). I had the bag of food in my left hand and a spoon in my right. And on my right side, hanging from my shoulder harness, my tele lens with the correct settings dialed in. Mid-chew, I looked to my left, put the bag of food down beside me, lifted my camera, and fired of a full burst. Afterwards I put down the camera, picked up my food and continued eating.

It was time to head back. I had a plan to get to a particular beach for sunset, Skagsanden beach. On the way I couldn't resist, and stopped at the same location I was at earlier. The sun had shifted a bit, shining nice side light on the mountains so that I could do nice panoramas that I'll put on my wall at some point. 

The beach was absolutely packed. I stopped counting at a hundred photographers, it was simply mental. I was a bit late, again, so didn't really have a good pick of compositions. I tried my best, but my heart wasn't really in it. It had been a long day, and I was really tired. And happy about all the photos I had already gotten that day. I also knew I had an early start the next day; there was no chance I'd miss sunrise at Hamnøy.

It had been a crazy, long day. Writing this, I know I should try more to describe what I felt, but mostly I was just overwhelmed. And that's really not that strange. Now, I just look at the images, and smile.

After sunset when most of the photogs had left. I should've put more effort in, such as focus stacking the image. But I was already half asleep.

Sunset at Skagsanden. Would've been great, were it not for the footsteps of some idiot.

Senja and Lofoten, part 7: weather, wind and animals

I woke up for sunset, with a location all mapped out. But when I looked out the window, I saw nothing but snow. The weather in these parts is pretty unpredictable, so I wasn't surprised. Since there was no point in going out, I went back to bed. When I woke up a few hours later, the snow was still going strong.

I had a good breakfast (with real coffee this time, the apartment had a coffee maker!) and started thinking of what to do for the day. There is basically one road going through this part of the islands, and you can drive towards the mainland and towards the sea. For this day, I chose the mainland. I figured since the weather was crap, I could visit the local aquarium instead. I really like aquariums, I don't really know why. There's just something calming about looking at fish slowly swimming around. And after that, if weather permitted, I'd scout the area toward the mainland.

When I finally had everything ready, the clouds had started to clear. I decided to quickly go to my sunrise location to scout it out for the future since it was only a 10 minute drive from the apartment. There was a convenient parking spot there so I parked up, took the camera and walked out on the beach. Even though the light was already a bit harsh, it was a nice scene.

I took a few shots, and turned back to the car. And of course, wouldn't you know it, there was an eagle flying towards the car. And I was 30 meters away from the right lens. The run was a bit slippery, and I had trouble putting on the lens and changing settings. I just caught the bird when it flew past.

A nice location, although there isn't much nice foreground.

Slightly too late, and had the wrong settings again...

...and when the settings were correct it was too late. Damnit.

Good thing that wasn't the only eagle I saw that day. In any case, I took my car and started driving north-east along the main road. The tail end of the bad weather still lingered, and I got a few nice shots of the clouds moving through.

Not a bad place to build a church.

The further I drove, the thicker the clouds got, and soon snow started falling. I was reminded of the drive the day before and took it easy. I wasn't in a hurry anywhere. It wasn't a long drive, and before I knew it, I was at the aquarium. The place looked deserted in the snow storm, but it was open so I walked in and got a ticket.

The aquarium is not that big, and only has local species. I tried to take some photos, but most of them were ruined by the glass. It's tricky to find good angles for the photos, since you basically have to be squared towards the glass, and the fishies and other crawlies typically stay toward the edges. When they do swim in the middle, they are so close to the glass that you pick up all the scratches as well.

I've eaten some of your family.

I had timed my driving so that I'd be at the aquarium when they were feeding some of the animals. One I've seen in person many times, the other not. It was a bit tricky to get a nice angle, and the strong wind and ever-present snow didn't help. But persistence pays off and I got a few nice photos in the end. I'd prefer if these were wild animals, but I'll take what I can get.

It's my spirit animal! <3

Omnomnom.

So cute!

What you typically see of seals. Rarely this close, though :)

I went back inside after the feeding to dry off and check out the rest of the exhibits, and just chilling. I wasn't in a hurry anywhere, the weather being what it was. One of the nicer images I got was this:

Lemme out!

After the aquarium it was time for lunch, so I drove into Kabelvåg for a nice burger; I needed something different than the adventure meals :) The weather did clear a bit while I was eating, so I continued the drive towards the mainland. But I didn't get very far. A truck had stopped seemingly random in the middle of the road and two cars had stopped behind it. I was just wondering what the problem was when the truck put on it's emergency blinkies, so I stopped behind the other cars. A minute later a fire truck stopped beside us and a fireman came to my window. A truck had driven a bit too fast on the road and had lost control. The fireman said that I could wait for them to clear the road, which could take a few hours, or to turn back. I read the local news later, the truck had flipped in a corner and a car of tourists had driven into the back. Luckily no one was hurt, but it had taken quite a while to remove all the fish that had spilled all over the road.

You can probably guess I turned back, and drove even more carefully back towards Leknes. The weather was really bad where the accident had happened, but it soon cleared and I could take some more roadside shots.

Not exactly boating weather.

I love the scale in this photo. That bridge isn't small, but it's still dwarfed by the mountain beside it. And you can't even see the mountaintops!

I was standing on the beach taking the pictures above, enjoying the fast clouds, when I looked back over my shoulder. There was a black lump on the ground that I was pretty sure hadn't been there before. Could it be? I pointed my camera at it since I had a longer lens on, and yes, it was. This time my car was closer, and the bird was sitting still. I was NOT going to mess this up.

Ohai.

The eagle just sat there while I moved gingerly closer. When the eagle turned into the wind, I knew what was happening; large birds like this have to take flight into the wind, especially when it was this windy. And I was ready.

After this particular stop, every time when I put away my camera in the back of the car, I put my birding lens on it. Clearly, there are eagles on Lofoten, lots of them. It was just a question of being ready.

At this point the sunset was closing in, and I still had a drive to get to my sunset location. The problem was that I got distracted. A lot. I stopped twice when an eagle flew overhead, and three times for the scenery. The setting sun produced some absolutely gorgeous light and I just couldn't resist.

Proper winds and new, light snow.

The misty mountains

Sky is turning pink already, come on!

As you can see from the picture above I was, once again, cutting it close. This time I knew that there was no way I'd make it to the location I had planned, so I just stopped by the road where I saw some nice light, and went for it. I could have done without the 50 cm of snow on the beach, but it was mostly just an inconvenience.

The water is just crystal clear around these parts. Too bad someone had dropped something into the sea exactly here...

After sunset more clouds rolled in, so I went back to the apartment for some dinner and much-needed sleep. Even though there might be auroras, there wasn't a chance I'd see them through the clouds. The next day it was time to drive south, to visit the legendary village of Hamnøy

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