Jotunheim

Day 9: all good things must come to an end, or do they?

The last day was finally here. To be honest, I welcomed it. As magnificent as the trip had been, I was looking forward to going home. 8 days, almost a thousand kilometers in the car and the bad beds had made an impact. I was very, very tired. 

The last days drive was quite uneventful. Partly because I was tired, an partly because the terrain flattened as I drove westwards to Bergen. I had seen landscapes that were so much nicer just a day ago, so I decided to keep on driving instead. The only place I stopped properly was Nærøyfjorden; and even there, I didn't take many pictures.

The way home.

Nærøyfjorden, part of the Sogne fjord system.

Nærøyfjorden, port of Gudvangen.

So, instead of talking about the non-interesting travel home, I'll talk a little about my feelings about the trip instead. As I write this, it's been three months since I got back. Of the 2800+ images I took I still have exactly 1000 left, and I should pare them down even more. So, was it worth the time and the money? Absolutely. Will I go back? Maybe.

As great as Jotunheimen is, I feel that I've seen it now. Don't get me wrong, If someone offered, I'd take a second trip in a heartbeat. Spending a couple of weeks in the Mountains near Geiranger or Jotunheimen proper would be awesome. But I want to see other places as well. Lofoten, for instance. Or the whole North-Western coast of Norway (see  e.g. here).

Better than blue skies, I think.

Hafslovatnet. I think.

Reflections in Jolstravatn

So, what was the greatest, nicest, most beautiful thing during the whole trip? The answer is, I don't know. I can't decide. I can give you a non-ordered list of absolutely gorgeous places, though; Fannaråken, Jotunheimen highlands, Geiranger highlands, Utladalen, and some of the Sogne fjord corners such as Nærøyfjorden and Lustrafjorden. I went primarily to see and experience proper mountains, and boy, did I. It was an experience of a lifetime, truly, and I'm already thinking on where to go next.

What about the trip format? Driving from place to place, and visiting multiple places instead of just a few? Well, I'd say that it worked quite well. And even though it rained quite often, I still think I got lucky with the weather (especially on Fannaråken!). It could have been so much worse. I knew it was a risk going so late in the summer, but it was a calculated risk. I don't mind cold, and I do mind tourists, even though I am one. I planned the trip so that I had the best combination of low tourists, sunset colors (see Fannaråken post for that), and still somewhat good weather. I bet the landscapes are different during the summer or winter, but looking back I got a sort of ominous feeling in many shots that I think suits the majestic landscapes well. As many landscape photographers will tell you, blue skies are almost the worst you can have :)

My trusty rented steed in its usual position, waiting for me to do my thing.

Sheep and Sogne fjord.

As for driving around, I think that it was the right thing to do for the first trip. I had no idea of what the terrain would look like, or where the real points of interest were. Covering as much ground as possible posed a real risk if the weather turned crappy the single day I had for a particular shot, but it was a risk I had to take. If I were to go back, and I definitely will at some point, I would pick two or three locations and stay there multiple days instead, exploring the area. I would probably pick Jotunheim (the area around Prestesteinsvatnet) and the area before Geiranger (around Breiddalsvatnet) from the places I visited for that; but there are lots of places that I didn't get to as well. So, now that I've seen everything I know what to concentrate on. 

What would I change? That's a tough one.. One thing would be to spend a day at Besseggen, traversing the ridge from end to end. Or at least taking some pics from the highest point. The most important thing though would not have to do with my planning, or gear, or the route; it would be to take more time shooting. And I don't mean taking more photos, I mean taking less. Thinking through the shot, taking time to align things, and so forth. I've realized I've come a long way in how I shoot, but I still have a lot to learn in finding compositions and replacing those 50 shots from a location with one amazing one. Not that taking multiple shots is bad, sometimes you get lucky (the Sognefjord image in the previous post being one; I'm embarrassed at how sloppy I was when I took it. It was a total fluke it turned out as good as it did). Part of it was the format of the trip; driving along roads and leaving the engine running while running out to the side of the road to take the shot doesn't encourage you to take your time. But it is an excuse; I can do better, and I will try to in the future.

On the road back from Geiranger

Very typical view of Sogne fjord. The trick is to find an angle without the road, and still get some foreground.

So, what's next? As I mentioned, I still need to pair down the photos a bit, but I think I'm pretty much done with this trip otherwise. Just have to place an order for some big prints to put in my new office, I think (60x40cm aluminium prints, I'll do a post on that later). What about other trips, then? Definitely. After Norway, I already was on a two week trip to Santa Cruz, California, and I took some great pics there too. So I think I will do a bit of a redesign of this blog, making it a continuous thing instead of just dedicated to the Norway trip. I also have a post planned for gear, and at least two for post-processing. I also have earlier photos, that I might do posts on; some from my cottages in the archipelago, some semi-macro insect shots, and even a week-long photography workshop on Lanzarote from almost two years ago, if I'm brave enough to show my very early work.

So, lots to do, and lots of things to come. I also have a couple of weeks of vacation left to take before summer, and I don't know how to use them. I was eyeing a photo workshop in Iceland, but it is too expensive. Next year, maybe. I might just take the time off to take photos of eagles at our cottage, who knows. But if you made it his far, thank you. I really appreciate it. I'm humbled that people take the time to read the stories of an amateur just doing what he loves.

And lastly, a couple of sneak peeks:

Turku archipelago, taken at our cottage.

Damselfly, I think. Not very good with naming the things I shoot, sorry :)

Sunset in Santa Cruz.

Day 8: back on (the) track

The next day was perfect; sunshine, some clouds, and even though the temperature was barely over freezing, it somehow suited the landscape perfectly. After a quick breakfast I took another walk around the little collection of huts, this time seeing the mountains in the background.

This is Norway.

Cold and windy, but oh so beautiful.

The view was amazing, and it cheered me up immensely. For one of the last times, I packed my stuff and headed out. My destination was the Utladalen valley, In the middle of prime Jotunheimen territory. The valley is over 20 kilometers long and features some spectacular views, primarily 3 of the biggest waterfalls of the region.

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

The drive to Utladalen was a quick one, but before I got to the parking lot of the valley I had to drive down through Øvre Årdal. The road comes from the plateau, and goes straight for the sheer cliff face, turning at the last second. I'm not kidding, the serpentine road going down has to go into the mountain on each turn, because there isn't room to build the supports for the road on the mountainside! Pure craziness, but I can totally understand why they live there:

Øvre Årdal, from a passing point on the serpentine road.

Not photoshopped. The sun hits waterfalls in the cliff side to create the strangest scene yet.

The Utladalen area starts at a parking lot, just besides the first waterfall, Hjellefossen. Pics of that one later, as the sun was directly on top of it when I arrived. The area seems popular with locals too, as the parking lot was almost completely full. From the parking lot, a small road continues up through the valley. At the beginning there is a tourist cafe and some sort of museum (no idea, it's not what I went there for :) ). The real fun starts a couple of hundred meters after the cafe, where the road starts following the valley river. And what a river.

The valley is surprisingly narrow, with very, very high walls; often more than half a kilometer straight up. Walking through it was one of the most awesome experiences on the whole trip. After about five hundred meters, you get to the second waterfall; Avdalsfossen. Described as the most picturesque of the three, its 173 meter fall is quite something.

Avdalsfossen. Apparently, during winter, people climb up the frozen waterfall for sport. Nice.

As I continued the walk, I just couldn't fathom the sheer size of the valley. My eyes had trouble focusing on the trees on the cliff walls, believing them to be much closer than they actually were. The valley only looks narrow because of the crazy high walls surrounding it. The scale is something I'm just not used to. I'd love to be, though :)

The trees on the top are just as big as the ones on the bottom...

Hidden lagoon along the river.

The walk to the last waterfall, Vettisfossen, is quite a long one. The GPS measured 6,7 kilometers from the parking lot to the waterfall. The first 4 kilometers or so are on a proper road, as there is a farm in the middle of the valley. After the farm, the road becomes a rocky path through the forest. As it had been raining, it was quite slippery in places. I didn't mind though, I had done worse just a few days before. And the view more than made up for it.

Quite the workout for those poor cows.

Yeah. Told you.

Can't remember where this path went, but it was not for me to take. Luckily.

As I (obviously) hadn't been here before, I had no idea where the waterfall actually was. I knew it was on the same (right) side of the valley I was, but you can't really see it from the path. You start hearing a faint roar, and then you just stumble on it, nestled into the mountainside. The path takes you right underneath the waterfall; if you want to, you can get really wet.

Where Avdalsfossen is 173 meters high, partially broken up, Vettisfossen is 275 meters, unbroken. The roar is absolutely deafening. It's difficult to convey the sheer size of the falls in photographs, since you are so close to it, but here goes:

Oh, hi...

Vettisfossen. The trees on the top show some scale. There is a path to get up there, I might try that sometime.

Vettisfossen, long exposure. Can't decide if I like the previous, chaotic version, or this imposed calmness. Lugging around a heavy tripod? So worth it.

Panorama stitch. Not perfect since I had to use such a wide angle, but I'm not complaining :)

After taking the images and eating a few snacks, I started my trek back. The view was the same as before, so no pics of that, but I did stop at the waterfall beside the parking lot. The sun had moved just enough to get some light on it, but it would have been better a few hours after. Alas, I had to get to Flåm, so I just snapped the pic and got in my car.

Hjellefossen, taken from the road to Utladalen.

I continued driving south towards Flåm. The Sogne fjord again presented itself to me, and I couldn't resist. I could spend a year photographing the fjord, too bad the landscape photography business is such a congested profession.

Sogne fjord, south of Utladalen.

I had one stop still to make that day, and that was Stegastein, near Aurland. It is a similar vantage point to Eagles Turn in Geiranger; you drive up a very fun road and stop at the top, ooing and aaing. Unfortunately it was midday, the sun was high in the sky, and in the worst possible place to take a photograph from the vantage point. If you are going to go there, do it in the morning, I still regret not driving back the next day. Sunset could be nice too, during summer the sun goes down in this direction:

View due north-west from Stegastein. See the boat on the left?

After Stegastein I drove back down to my hostel. I ate dinner at a fantastic restaurant in the village center. Turns out the owners were Estonian, so I spoke Finnish with my waiter the whole evening. Small world.

The next day was the last day of my trip. Not many pictures from that day, but I'll add them to a final post anyway. I'll probably also list the highlights of the trip, along with some insights I had during the trip itself, and after. I might follow up with a gear post too, or post-processing. We'll see. But all that is for later, there is still one day to cover.

Day 7: the low point

After a restless night I woke up to sunshine. It didn't help my mood, though; the boring (latter half) of the drive the day before was still on my mind. It didn't help that there was only one point of interest between me and my destination for the day, at least as far as I knew. I also had no idea where I would be sleeping the next night; I hadn't been able to make any reservations what so ever.

I turned my thoughts to the point of interest for the day; the Besseggen ridge alongside lake Gjende. As one of the most popular destinations in Jotunheimen, there were a lot of images of it online. The issue was that the ridge itself is 17 kilometers long, with a 760m height difference at the tallest point. That tallest point is about 5 kilometers in to the trek from Gjendesheim Turisthytte where I'd park my car. The view seemed awesome, though, so it might just be worth the trek.

The route for the day; Besseggen is just above the distance marker.

As I mentioned in the last post, I wasn't feeling fully well the day before, and I did still have a strange feeling, like I was getting sick. So I decided to drive down to the Gjende lake and see what to do when I got there. I might walk up the ridge, I might not. I packed my things and started driving; I made it a coupe of kilometers when I saw a sign of a roadside attraction, Ridderspranget (The Knights Leap). Since I had some time, and no other points of interest before Gjende, I parked my car and took out my camera.

The attraction is pretty much in the middle of a forested area, so you have no idea what you'll get before actually seeing it. Almost. In this case, it was clear to me when I got out of the car; this was a waterfall or rapids of some sort. Why not, I thought, let's take a look.

Ridderspranget.

Close up of the gorge itself; the hole is about 5 meters deep, 10 meters long and about a meter between the rocks in the narrowest place. The water flows through it quite violently, and the noise was something else. The stone in the foreground is completely smooth.

The rapids were quite a nice surprise, even though they were small by Norway standards. The name apparently comes from an old story from the 1300s; a knight rescued the daughter of an opposing family, and this is where they got away from their pursuers by jumping the gorge, and then stopping anyone else getting to the other side by pushing the ones that tried down the gorge. True or not, I would not like to try swimming in that current.

I continued my trip, and soon got out of the woods and up on the highlands. The terrain was similar to that going up to Geiranger; more flat, though. I stopped at the Øvre Sjodalsvatnet lake to get a few pics:

View across Øvre Sjodalsvatnet

I could spend a few days here, sure.

The drive to Gjende wasn't that long and I soon arrived. The sun was still out, but the clouds were gathering; still, there were quite a lot of trekkers on the parking lot and the ferry dock, that took them to the other end of the lake (and the other end of the trek). After having lunch I still wasn't feeling too well. You could chalk it down to laziness, man-flu, or me being a chicken, but I decided not to walk up the ridge. In the end I'm glad I didn't, I wouldn't have had time to get to my rest stop for the night if I had. I did walk up the start of the trail and snapped a pic, though:

Lake Gjende, with Besseggen on the right. The trek follows the top of the ridge. I will go back some day.

Horsie!

Not walking up the hill gave me a few moments to check out the river running into the lake, as well as some of the surrounding mountains.

Sjoa river, Besseggen in the background. I should have positioned myself a meter to the left, now that I see the image... Oh well.

The view from a kilometer further on the road, back towards Besseggen. The mountains and lake frame the Besshø mountain that is beside the trek. It's covered in clouds, naturally.

The view flattened as I drove along towards Utladalen, my destination for the day after. The Utladalen valley is home to three big waterfalls, and I wanted to get as close as possible to minimize the driving the next day. Since I hadn't found any available beds on the route, I was basically winging it. I just decided to drive towards the valley, and stop at a random place with a hytte sign. After all, I had seen those signs all over the place, so I figured I'd find some on the way.

The terrain was surprisingly flat, with no vegetation higher than a small bush here and there. The road goes along the east side of Jotunheimen, which is a plateau of sorts; all the mountains are on the Jotunheimen side, but you cant really see any of them from the road. I really struggled to find interesting places to stop at.

Vinstre lake and my view to the east. The village is more than a kilometer away; not a tree in sight.

The road slowly makes its way downward, and soon I was beside familiar looking lakes and valleys. The clouds from before had made a comeback, and it started to drizzle.

Driving along E16; this is the Vangsmjøse lake.

I was getting close to Utladalen now, so I started to look for a place to sleep. As the rain intesified, I drove on and on; not a hytte in sight. I even drove past a vacated hotel, typical. Then, finally, I saw a sign for hyttes at the side of lake Tyin; tyinstolen tourist hyttes. I parked my car, and went inside; the place was closed. Of course. Luckily, it hadn't been closed for many days, and the caretaker was still tidying up the place after the season had ended. He took pity on me and gave me one of their hyttes to sleep in. I gratefully accepted, and took shelter from the rain in my own grass-roofed hut.

Luxurious, no?

A rainy look at the campsite lagoon.

After settling in and having a dinner consisting of muesli bars and a coke, I took a quick look around and snapped a pic of the shore. The weather wasn't very inspiring, so I decided to go to bed. Although the day had been a dissapointment, tomorrow would be much better I said to myself. According to the forecast, there would be no rain, and the waterfalls looked great on paper. I didn't even mind the 5 kilometer hike I had to do to get to the biggest one. And the map even promised some nice views on the way there. As it turned out, it really did make up the boredom of the previous day.