Sogne fjord

Day 9: all good things must come to an end, or do they?

The last day was finally here. To be honest, I welcomed it. As magnificent as the trip had been, I was looking forward to going home. 8 days, almost a thousand kilometers in the car and the bad beds had made an impact. I was very, very tired. 

The last days drive was quite uneventful. Partly because I was tired, an partly because the terrain flattened as I drove westwards to Bergen. I had seen landscapes that were so much nicer just a day ago, so I decided to keep on driving instead. The only place I stopped properly was Nærøyfjorden; and even there, I didn't take many pictures.

The way home.

Nærøyfjorden, part of the Sogne fjord system.

Nærøyfjorden, port of Gudvangen.

So, instead of talking about the non-interesting travel home, I'll talk a little about my feelings about the trip instead. As I write this, it's been three months since I got back. Of the 2800+ images I took I still have exactly 1000 left, and I should pare them down even more. So, was it worth the time and the money? Absolutely. Will I go back? Maybe.

As great as Jotunheimen is, I feel that I've seen it now. Don't get me wrong, If someone offered, I'd take a second trip in a heartbeat. Spending a couple of weeks in the Mountains near Geiranger or Jotunheimen proper would be awesome. But I want to see other places as well. Lofoten, for instance. Or the whole North-Western coast of Norway (see  e.g. here).

Better than blue skies, I think.

Hafslovatnet. I think.

Reflections in Jolstravatn

So, what was the greatest, nicest, most beautiful thing during the whole trip? The answer is, I don't know. I can't decide. I can give you a non-ordered list of absolutely gorgeous places, though; Fannaråken, Jotunheimen highlands, Geiranger highlands, Utladalen, and some of the Sogne fjord corners such as Nærøyfjorden and Lustrafjorden. I went primarily to see and experience proper mountains, and boy, did I. It was an experience of a lifetime, truly, and I'm already thinking on where to go next.

What about the trip format? Driving from place to place, and visiting multiple places instead of just a few? Well, I'd say that it worked quite well. And even though it rained quite often, I still think I got lucky with the weather (especially on Fannaråken!). It could have been so much worse. I knew it was a risk going so late in the summer, but it was a calculated risk. I don't mind cold, and I do mind tourists, even though I am one. I planned the trip so that I had the best combination of low tourists, sunset colors (see Fannaråken post for that), and still somewhat good weather. I bet the landscapes are different during the summer or winter, but looking back I got a sort of ominous feeling in many shots that I think suits the majestic landscapes well. As many landscape photographers will tell you, blue skies are almost the worst you can have :)

My trusty rented steed in its usual position, waiting for me to do my thing.

Sheep and Sogne fjord.

As for driving around, I think that it was the right thing to do for the first trip. I had no idea of what the terrain would look like, or where the real points of interest were. Covering as much ground as possible posed a real risk if the weather turned crappy the single day I had for a particular shot, but it was a risk I had to take. If I were to go back, and I definitely will at some point, I would pick two or three locations and stay there multiple days instead, exploring the area. I would probably pick Jotunheim (the area around Prestesteinsvatnet) and the area before Geiranger (around Breiddalsvatnet) from the places I visited for that; but there are lots of places that I didn't get to as well. So, now that I've seen everything I know what to concentrate on. 

What would I change? That's a tough one.. One thing would be to spend a day at Besseggen, traversing the ridge from end to end. Or at least taking some pics from the highest point. The most important thing though would not have to do with my planning, or gear, or the route; it would be to take more time shooting. And I don't mean taking more photos, I mean taking less. Thinking through the shot, taking time to align things, and so forth. I've realized I've come a long way in how I shoot, but I still have a lot to learn in finding compositions and replacing those 50 shots from a location with one amazing one. Not that taking multiple shots is bad, sometimes you get lucky (the Sognefjord image in the previous post being one; I'm embarrassed at how sloppy I was when I took it. It was a total fluke it turned out as good as it did). Part of it was the format of the trip; driving along roads and leaving the engine running while running out to the side of the road to take the shot doesn't encourage you to take your time. But it is an excuse; I can do better, and I will try to in the future.

On the road back from Geiranger

Very typical view of Sogne fjord. The trick is to find an angle without the road, and still get some foreground.

So, what's next? As I mentioned, I still need to pair down the photos a bit, but I think I'm pretty much done with this trip otherwise. Just have to place an order for some big prints to put in my new office, I think (60x40cm aluminium prints, I'll do a post on that later). What about other trips, then? Definitely. After Norway, I already was on a two week trip to Santa Cruz, California, and I took some great pics there too. So I think I will do a bit of a redesign of this blog, making it a continuous thing instead of just dedicated to the Norway trip. I also have a post planned for gear, and at least two for post-processing. I also have earlier photos, that I might do posts on; some from my cottages in the archipelago, some semi-macro insect shots, and even a week-long photography workshop on Lanzarote from almost two years ago, if I'm brave enough to show my very early work.

So, lots to do, and lots of things to come. I also have a couple of weeks of vacation left to take before summer, and I don't know how to use them. I was eyeing a photo workshop in Iceland, but it is too expensive. Next year, maybe. I might just take the time off to take photos of eagles at our cottage, who knows. But if you made it his far, thank you. I really appreciate it. I'm humbled that people take the time to read the stories of an amateur just doing what he loves.

And lastly, a couple of sneak peeks:

Turku archipelago, taken at our cottage.

Damselfly, I think. Not very good with naming the things I shoot, sorry :)

Sunset in Santa Cruz.

Day 8: back on (the) track

The next day was perfect; sunshine, some clouds, and even though the temperature was barely over freezing, it somehow suited the landscape perfectly. After a quick breakfast I took another walk around the little collection of huts, this time seeing the mountains in the background.

This is Norway.

Cold and windy, but oh so beautiful.

The view was amazing, and it cheered me up immensely. For one of the last times, I packed my stuff and headed out. My destination was the Utladalen valley, In the middle of prime Jotunheimen territory. The valley is over 20 kilometers long and features some spectacular views, primarily 3 of the biggest waterfalls of the region.

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

The drive to Utladalen was a quick one, but before I got to the parking lot of the valley I had to drive down through Øvre Årdal. The road comes from the plateau, and goes straight for the sheer cliff face, turning at the last second. I'm not kidding, the serpentine road going down has to go into the mountain on each turn, because there isn't room to build the supports for the road on the mountainside! Pure craziness, but I can totally understand why they live there:

Øvre Årdal, from a passing point on the serpentine road.

Not photoshopped. The sun hits waterfalls in the cliff side to create the strangest scene yet.

The Utladalen area starts at a parking lot, just besides the first waterfall, Hjellefossen. Pics of that one later, as the sun was directly on top of it when I arrived. The area seems popular with locals too, as the parking lot was almost completely full. From the parking lot, a small road continues up through the valley. At the beginning there is a tourist cafe and some sort of museum (no idea, it's not what I went there for :) ). The real fun starts a couple of hundred meters after the cafe, where the road starts following the valley river. And what a river.

The valley is surprisingly narrow, with very, very high walls; often more than half a kilometer straight up. Walking through it was one of the most awesome experiences on the whole trip. After about five hundred meters, you get to the second waterfall; Avdalsfossen. Described as the most picturesque of the three, its 173 meter fall is quite something.

Avdalsfossen. Apparently, during winter, people climb up the frozen waterfall for sport. Nice.

As I continued the walk, I just couldn't fathom the sheer size of the valley. My eyes had trouble focusing on the trees on the cliff walls, believing them to be much closer than they actually were. The valley only looks narrow because of the crazy high walls surrounding it. The scale is something I'm just not used to. I'd love to be, though :)

The trees on the top are just as big as the ones on the bottom...

Hidden lagoon along the river.

The walk to the last waterfall, Vettisfossen, is quite a long one. The GPS measured 6,7 kilometers from the parking lot to the waterfall. The first 4 kilometers or so are on a proper road, as there is a farm in the middle of the valley. After the farm, the road becomes a rocky path through the forest. As it had been raining, it was quite slippery in places. I didn't mind though, I had done worse just a few days before. And the view more than made up for it.

Quite the workout for those poor cows.

Yeah. Told you.

Can't remember where this path went, but it was not for me to take. Luckily.

As I (obviously) hadn't been here before, I had no idea where the waterfall actually was. I knew it was on the same (right) side of the valley I was, but you can't really see it from the path. You start hearing a faint roar, and then you just stumble on it, nestled into the mountainside. The path takes you right underneath the waterfall; if you want to, you can get really wet.

Where Avdalsfossen is 173 meters high, partially broken up, Vettisfossen is 275 meters, unbroken. The roar is absolutely deafening. It's difficult to convey the sheer size of the falls in photographs, since you are so close to it, but here goes:

Oh, hi...

Vettisfossen. The trees on the top show some scale. There is a path to get up there, I might try that sometime.

Vettisfossen, long exposure. Can't decide if I like the previous, chaotic version, or this imposed calmness. Lugging around a heavy tripod? So worth it.

Panorama stitch. Not perfect since I had to use such a wide angle, but I'm not complaining :)

After taking the images and eating a few snacks, I started my trek back. The view was the same as before, so no pics of that, but I did stop at the waterfall beside the parking lot. The sun had moved just enough to get some light on it, but it would have been better a few hours after. Alas, I had to get to Flåm, so I just snapped the pic and got in my car.

Hjellefossen, taken from the road to Utladalen.

I continued driving south towards Flåm. The Sogne fjord again presented itself to me, and I couldn't resist. I could spend a year photographing the fjord, too bad the landscape photography business is such a congested profession.

Sogne fjord, south of Utladalen.

I had one stop still to make that day, and that was Stegastein, near Aurland. It is a similar vantage point to Eagles Turn in Geiranger; you drive up a very fun road and stop at the top, ooing and aaing. Unfortunately it was midday, the sun was high in the sky, and in the worst possible place to take a photograph from the vantage point. If you are going to go there, do it in the morning, I still regret not driving back the next day. Sunset could be nice too, during summer the sun goes down in this direction:

View due north-west from Stegastein. See the boat on the left?

After Stegastein I drove back down to my hostel. I ate dinner at a fantastic restaurant in the village center. Turns out the owners were Estonian, so I spoke Finnish with my waiter the whole evening. Small world.

The next day was the last day of my trip. Not many pictures from that day, but I'll add them to a final post anyway. I'll probably also list the highlights of the trip, along with some insights I had during the trip itself, and after. I might follow up with a gear post too, or post-processing. We'll see. But all that is for later, there is still one day to cover.

Day 2: water in all its forms.

I woke up to sunshine on Sunday morning, which was great considering the weather of the previous day. I decided not to waste time, and headed up to the rapids I had scouted the day before. After some setting up, I managed to find a composition I liked. I snapped off a bracketed series and a few long exposures, which I knew I'd combine later:

The actual Likholefossen.

Tiny rainbow, yay!

I tried some other compositions too, getting myself more wet than planned, and managing to find a small rainbow in the middle of the stream. In total I took around a hundred images, much of them redundant brackets (the sun went in and out, so consistency was an issue). Once tourists started arriving in buses I decided to pack my stuff and take off towards Turtagrø, where I had a hotel room booked.

Second day route.

Second day route.

The road took me by a couple of highland lakes, which are as picturesque as you might imagine. I even saw an eagle that flew right above my car;  of course I had my camera in the back seat, so no pics of that unfortunately. I realized early on that having the camera reachable from the driver's seat can be very dangerous ;)

Haukedalsvatnet. No photoshop trickery on the water, I promise :)

Typical tiny hills of Norway.

Jølstravatnet. Too bad that there was a breeze..

As I mentioned in the last post, my route took me via a glacier; the Bøyabreen. Despite coming from a Nordic country, this was my first experience with a glacier up close. Even though it was tiny after the summer, it was still quite an experience to see. A well-liked destination judging from the tourists (and cows) I got in almost all shots, I bet the glacier is much more impressive in the spring. The glacier is situated in the very end of a valley, a part of the Sognefjord system. The valley walls are quite steep, and there are waterfalls everywhere.

A stream coming down the valley beside the glacier.

The Bøyabreen glacier.

Closeup of the glacier.

Some locals chilling by the local watering hole.

As you might have noticed, it had started raining again, so I continued on my trip. The road goes down south to Sognefjord, and continues North-East as Road 55, designated a 'tourist road'. My destination was halfway along the road, so I was expecting some nice landscapes. There were some. The only issue was the damn rain; I was feeling quite down about the whole thing. 

Sognefjord, just down from the glacier.

Same shot, a little wider (and earlier). Can't decide which one I like better :)

Driving along Road 55.

The water is actually that color; more on that in later posts.

Those are two-storey houses under the waterfall..

The last leg of the day was up a small serpentine road up to the plains of Jotunheim National Park. I noticed something interesting along the road. There are big signs and road barriers before the climb. The signs say 'WARNING - road closed during winter'. The reason is that it is completely impractical to keep the roads clear during winter, because of the ridiculous amounts of snow. It is just easier to move everything down to the valleys for the winter (including cows and sheep), and then back up again when the snow melts. Norwegians are crazy people.

The rain really poured down now, so I decided against stopping anywhere. Besides, I was very close to my stay for the night, Turtagrø Hotel, and I was very, very hungry. I did take a few images once at the hotel, though:

View from the Hotel parking lot, due south.

View to the East. My path the next day would take me towards those peaks.

Grab shot through the window, literally on my way to the restaurant for dinner. My stomach won this one, even though the light was amazing :)

A very nice dinner and some wine later I settled down to plan the coming days. The very next day and the day after that were booked for the walk up and down Fannaråken, but the three days afterward were a question mark. Finally I decided to drive north to Geiranger, and I'm very, very glad I did. That will have to wait for another post, though.

So, sorry for the non-inspired commentary in places; it is very much in line with how I felt, driving through amazing landscapes with no chance to properly capture them. Fortunately, that day was the last day of rain, and things will pick up considerably in the next post, where I take you up the mountain called Fannaråken.