Long exposure

Quick trip to Kökar

Around where I live, in the Turku region, there aren't really any grandiose landscapes. In fact, they are so boring (to me at least) that I decided to go to Norway a few years ago, and start this blog :) So, coming back from Iceland I had a tough few weeks; I wanted to take awesome pictures, but I had basically no money and not a lot of energy for travelling. But I remembered something I had though about a few years earlier; camping out in the archipelago and trying to get images out there.

MY dads cabin, as nice at it is, isn't out in what I call the 'real' archipelago. Yes, it's by the sea, on an island, but there is no place where you could see nothing but sea; it's simply not far enough from the coast. Luckily, Finland has very good public transportation, that also covers the major islands of the archipelago.

The island of Kökar is one of the biggest islands in the Turku / Åland archipelago, and it is also the most isolated big island of them all. All it took was a weather report promising proper thunderstorms for a weekend, and my mind was set. I packed the car with my gear and my tent, and headed to Korpo, from where I took the ferry to Kökar.

The plan was to spend two nights at a camping ground on the northwestern end of the island. That would give me good access to the coastline, giving me locations for sunrise, sunset, and possible storms. The reason I was interested in the storms is that they can produce some of the most dramatic skies you've ever seen; having a storm-front roll in over the archipelago, or having a storm clear way for the sun is a sight to behold. That was what I wanted to capture.

The first of two evenings, there wasn't a cloud in sight, but I went out to the coastline with my gear to do some location scouting. There are a few hiking trails in that part of the island that I quickly found, and I made my way through the trees towards the coast. After scaring a small family of deer, I got to the beach and started looking around. It was a great location, unfortunately the blue sky made it almost useless to photograph. Still, I looked around, and took some snapshots of possible locations for later.

One thing that I did decide to take a photo of that evening was the church. There is a small village church and graveyard on a small hill by the northern side of the island. It wasn't far away, so I walked there along the coast. I quickly found that if I wanted the church visible, there was only one direction I could take the photo from; luckily, the sun was setting in the same direction.

Not my best,  but it's not too shabby.

While taking the picture above I noticed something; I had left my jacket in the car,  and it was getting a bit chilly. So chilly, in fact, that in my hurry to get back to my jacket, I missed focus on a panorama I took from the same location. I took all 35 exposures for the HDR panorama, and I realized they were blurry only the next day. In my defense, I was cold and hungry.

Back at the tent, I first put on some proper clothing, and then cooked some dinner. The storm was supposed to hit the next day, and there was supposed to be partial cloud cover during sunrise. One of the ideas I had for the trip was to take a sunrise pic of the camping ground harbor, so I set my watch for 4:30 and went to bed.

There were dozens of these snails around my tent immediately after the sun went down.

The next morning, I looked out of my tent and decided begrudgingly that the weather forecast was right and that there might be a nice sunrise. I'm not a morning person, at all, but the things I do for photos... After about ten or fifteen minutes of walking through the thick bush I got to a rock overlooking the harbor and the sunrise, and set up my tripod. I still don't really know what I did wrong, but Lightroom and photoshop simply refuse to stitch the photos I took that morning into a nice straight panoramic. I've spent hours on straightening it, and luckily I've gotten it into something that almost resembles reality:

The morning was amazing, though. I sat on a rock by my camera, looking at the clouds rolling in from the right and the sun rising from the left. I have a lot of raw photos from that morning, my hope is that some day I'll bother to process all of them and see if some might be better than the one above. For now, I can't be bothered.

The storm came later that day. It was the biggest storm of the summer, actually. Or so the news said. It missed Kökar completely. We only got some rain with uniform grey skies. Best laid plans, and all that... I spent the day mostly doing nothing, sitting and watching the sea. A few hours later the showers of rain cleared out, so I took the chance and walked out to the beach again. 

Chillin'. If you look closely, you can see a seal's head above my shoe, some way out to sea.

There is something calming about the sea. I could spend hours just sitting and watching it. Well, I did. And I have before. Some time before sunset, I started to look for sunset compositions. I had already photographed the church, so I wasn't that interested in it. Besides, I didn't want anything man-made in my shot. This was going to be a picture of the wast calmness of the outer archipelago at sunset.

Gaps had started to appear in the clouds too, so I had a chance for a great sunset. After changing my composition three times, I set my tripod down, made my camera ready, and waited. The clouds were thickest at the horizon, but there was a small gap just above it. Maybe, with luck, the sun would get through there.

All in all, a nice evening. Even though I didn't get the storm clouds, I was happy I got something. Also, sitting at the beach all day was quite relaxing.

The next morning, it rained. Also, I discovered my tent isn't rainproof anymore. No wonder, it's probably 15 years old at this point. Still, not a happy morning for me. Good thing I had my car with me, it was easy to dump everything in it and pack up the tent. The rain continued for most of the day, but I did manage to take this:

Another rain cloud rolling in.

I was going to go to the beach, but it was raining and I was lazy. The cloud above might have looked great at the correct location... Anyway, that was it for this short trip. The rains continued for the whole trip back, even though they were quite sporadic. On the ferry back to Korpo I took the final image of the trip:

Not quite what I wanted, but it'll do.

All in all a good trip; I didn't get the photo I was planning to, but I did have a few relaxing day out by the sea. And in my book, that's a win.

Day 8: back on (the) track

The next day was perfect; sunshine, some clouds, and even though the temperature was barely over freezing, it somehow suited the landscape perfectly. After a quick breakfast I took another walk around the little collection of huts, this time seeing the mountains in the background.

This is Norway.

Cold and windy, but oh so beautiful.

The view was amazing, and it cheered me up immensely. For one of the last times, I packed my stuff and headed out. My destination was the Utladalen valley, In the middle of prime Jotunheimen territory. The valley is over 20 kilometers long and features some spectacular views, primarily 3 of the biggest waterfalls of the region.

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

From lake Tyin to Flåm. The straight bit on the left is a single tunnel, 27 kilometers long. Quite an experience, that. Lots of those on this day...

The drive to Utladalen was a quick one, but before I got to the parking lot of the valley I had to drive down through Øvre Årdal. The road comes from the plateau, and goes straight for the sheer cliff face, turning at the last second. I'm not kidding, the serpentine road going down has to go into the mountain on each turn, because there isn't room to build the supports for the road on the mountainside! Pure craziness, but I can totally understand why they live there:

Øvre Årdal, from a passing point on the serpentine road.

Not photoshopped. The sun hits waterfalls in the cliff side to create the strangest scene yet.

The Utladalen area starts at a parking lot, just besides the first waterfall, Hjellefossen. Pics of that one later, as the sun was directly on top of it when I arrived. The area seems popular with locals too, as the parking lot was almost completely full. From the parking lot, a small road continues up through the valley. At the beginning there is a tourist cafe and some sort of museum (no idea, it's not what I went there for :) ). The real fun starts a couple of hundred meters after the cafe, where the road starts following the valley river. And what a river.

The valley is surprisingly narrow, with very, very high walls; often more than half a kilometer straight up. Walking through it was one of the most awesome experiences on the whole trip. After about five hundred meters, you get to the second waterfall; Avdalsfossen. Described as the most picturesque of the three, its 173 meter fall is quite something.

Avdalsfossen. Apparently, during winter, people climb up the frozen waterfall for sport. Nice.

As I continued the walk, I just couldn't fathom the sheer size of the valley. My eyes had trouble focusing on the trees on the cliff walls, believing them to be much closer than they actually were. The valley only looks narrow because of the crazy high walls surrounding it. The scale is something I'm just not used to. I'd love to be, though :)

The trees on the top are just as big as the ones on the bottom...

Hidden lagoon along the river.

The walk to the last waterfall, Vettisfossen, is quite a long one. The GPS measured 6,7 kilometers from the parking lot to the waterfall. The first 4 kilometers or so are on a proper road, as there is a farm in the middle of the valley. After the farm, the road becomes a rocky path through the forest. As it had been raining, it was quite slippery in places. I didn't mind though, I had done worse just a few days before. And the view more than made up for it.

Quite the workout for those poor cows.

Yeah. Told you.

Can't remember where this path went, but it was not for me to take. Luckily.

As I (obviously) hadn't been here before, I had no idea where the waterfall actually was. I knew it was on the same (right) side of the valley I was, but you can't really see it from the path. You start hearing a faint roar, and then you just stumble on it, nestled into the mountainside. The path takes you right underneath the waterfall; if you want to, you can get really wet.

Where Avdalsfossen is 173 meters high, partially broken up, Vettisfossen is 275 meters, unbroken. The roar is absolutely deafening. It's difficult to convey the sheer size of the falls in photographs, since you are so close to it, but here goes:

Oh, hi...

Vettisfossen. The trees on the top show some scale. There is a path to get up there, I might try that sometime.

Vettisfossen, long exposure. Can't decide if I like the previous, chaotic version, or this imposed calmness. Lugging around a heavy tripod? So worth it.

Panorama stitch. Not perfect since I had to use such a wide angle, but I'm not complaining :)

After taking the images and eating a few snacks, I started my trek back. The view was the same as before, so no pics of that, but I did stop at the waterfall beside the parking lot. The sun had moved just enough to get some light on it, but it would have been better a few hours after. Alas, I had to get to Flåm, so I just snapped the pic and got in my car.

Hjellefossen, taken from the road to Utladalen.

I continued driving south towards Flåm. The Sogne fjord again presented itself to me, and I couldn't resist. I could spend a year photographing the fjord, too bad the landscape photography business is such a congested profession.

Sogne fjord, south of Utladalen.

I had one stop still to make that day, and that was Stegastein, near Aurland. It is a similar vantage point to Eagles Turn in Geiranger; you drive up a very fun road and stop at the top, ooing and aaing. Unfortunately it was midday, the sun was high in the sky, and in the worst possible place to take a photograph from the vantage point. If you are going to go there, do it in the morning, I still regret not driving back the next day. Sunset could be nice too, during summer the sun goes down in this direction:

View due north-west from Stegastein. See the boat on the left?

After Stegastein I drove back down to my hostel. I ate dinner at a fantastic restaurant in the village center. Turns out the owners were Estonian, so I spoke Finnish with my waiter the whole evening. Small world.

The next day was the last day of my trip. Not many pictures from that day, but I'll add them to a final post anyway. I'll probably also list the highlights of the trip, along with some insights I had during the trip itself, and after. I might follow up with a gear post too, or post-processing. We'll see. But all that is for later, there is still one day to cover.

Day 6: sights old and new

As I woke up, the sun shone through the curtains in my room. It was a welcome sight, remembering the heavy showers of the previous day. I slept in, barely making it to the breakfast; I was in no hurry, as the drive that day wasn't that long. I was going to continue on my trip around Jotunheimen itself. The detour to Geiranger was long, but really worth it; now it was time to get back on track.

I had planned my next stay so that I had a short trip the next day to a very popular hiking destination East of Jotunheimen; the Besseggen. The drive would take me along the same road I had taken the day before, from Geiranger back to Lom. From Lom the road was unfamiliar, and according to Google there wasn't really anything along it. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

After checking out I carried my stuff down to the car. Having a 20+kg luggage with clothes and 10+kg backpack of camera gear was starting to be a big PITA, but at least I had everything I would need with me. Once in the parking lot, I took a look down the valley towards Geiranger and snapping a few shots. Another cruise ship had apparently arrived during the night, and sat in the middle of the fjord waiting to dock.

The view from the hotel. You can see the road up to the lookout I used the previous night in the top right. 

I had done some research on the road I was going to drive on (again). Turns out, I had missed a pretty awesome location; Dalsnibba. I did remember driving past it, but I had no idea what it was at the time. Dalsnibba is a viewing platform and restaurant/souvenir shop on the top of Geirangerfjellet, a tall mountain overlooking Geiranger itself. There is a road all the way to the top, with ample parking. Similarly to Galdhøpiggen, the road has a toll. I tried several times to pay with card, but after some time I gave up and used cash instead. 'The cell tower is on the other side of that mountain wall', the girl in the booth said. Yeah, no surprise there, this is Norway after all :)

Just after Geiranger, the wall on the right blocks cell coverage to the road on the left. 

The wall is huge and almost black. Looking at it is a bit surreal, actually.

I drove towards the top, noticing that there was a construction crew working on the summit. I wonder what kind of extra pay they get for conditions like this:

Those with fear of heights need not apply.

I guess they get used to it. Anyway, the view from the top was amazing. I wasn't alone, either. This was the first tourist attraction that actually had some tourists during the trip, so I was a bit annoyed. Only a bit though, people moved around so getting some shots wasn't terribly difficult. Half of the viewing platform was walled off because of the construction, but there is a bit just beside the wall that doesn't have any safe guards. At all. Guess where the people were?

Very close to the edge there, might want to step back a bit..

The view wasn't bad. The road is fun to drive on. Like really, really fun.

There must have been a hundred stone piles on the top. Not that I mind, the make for nice subjects.

Zoomed shot towards Geiranger. That road was fun too.

Up on the top I saw a few familiar faces; the Indian couple I had met walking up Fannaråken. Small world. I took the final pics, packed up, and started down the mountain. I had made it halfway when I had to stop:

It really is an amazing country, this.

A look back at the mountain wall. House for scale.

I continued down and along the road. The mountains became smaller quite quickly, but that doesn't mean there aren't things to see. I remembered there was a big waterfall/rapids on the way to Lom, about 50 kilometers from Geiranger. I wasn't in the mood to stop the day before, but today, the story was different. I missed it the first time, driving right by. I quickly turned around and drove off the main road. Yes, I could see some potential here.

I tried to find the name of this place, but no luck. Google Maps hasn't got any name on it either. I'm also kicking myself for not thinking to walk to the little bridge :( I might just put this one up on my wall, just to remind myself ;)

On the other side of the same bridge as above.

Neutral density and polarizing filters, oh how I love thee.

Remember when I wrote that I didn't have many shots from the day before, and could figure out why? I remember now. Even though the landscape (and especially the river and lakes) are great, there is barely any place to stop on the road. All roads go directly to someones private cabin by the water, making it difficult for a nerd like me to stop and take pics there, even if no one was home. The road also has practically no shoulders to stop on. It really sucks, as the road really is spectacular in places; the water is so turquoise its nuts.

What is this, the Riviera?

After about half an hour of cursing the Norwegian road builders, the landscape changed back to the familiar wide valley, and I arrived in Lom just in time for some lunch. Now the unfamiliar road started. Unfortunately, it was quite boring. I don't know if it was because I was coming down from the mountains or what, but I wasn't inspired to stop for photos at all. I did force myself to take one, though:

Meh.

After the road turned away from the lake, there was only forest. No views what so ever. I quickly found my hytte and settled down for the night. At least there was electricity for me to process and back up some photos, and I had had the foresight to buy some chocolate in Lom, so it wasn't all that bad. The only interesting thing was a bunch of Porsches that drove by in the evening. I counted 2 Cayennes and 4 911s, all driving very, very fast on the small road. No idea what that was about.

The next day was still a bit of a question mark. The plan was to drive to Besseggen and see if I'd do the climb to the top. The view seems to be quite nice. Afterwards, I only had a plan to drive toward Utladalen, but I had no idea where I'd stay that night. I also hadn't seen any points of interest along the way. I tried to plan something, but soon drifted off to a restless sleep.