Lofoten

Senja and Lofoten, part 7: weather, wind and animals

I woke up for sunset, with a location all mapped out. But when I looked out the window, I saw nothing but snow. The weather in these parts is pretty unpredictable, so I wasn't surprised. Since there was no point in going out, I went back to bed. When I woke up a few hours later, the snow was still going strong.

I had a good breakfast (with real coffee this time, the apartment had a coffee maker!) and started thinking of what to do for the day. There is basically one road going through this part of the islands, and you can drive towards the mainland and towards the sea. For this day, I chose the mainland. I figured since the weather was crap, I could visit the local aquarium instead. I really like aquariums, I don't really know why. There's just something calming about looking at fish slowly swimming around. And after that, if weather permitted, I'd scout the area toward the mainland.

When I finally had everything ready, the clouds had started to clear. I decided to quickly go to my sunrise location to scout it out for the future since it was only a 10 minute drive from the apartment. There was a convenient parking spot there so I parked up, took the camera and walked out on the beach. Even though the light was already a bit harsh, it was a nice scene.

I took a few shots, and turned back to the car. And of course, wouldn't you know it, there was an eagle flying towards the car. And I was 30 meters away from the right lens. The run was a bit slippery, and I had trouble putting on the lens and changing settings. I just caught the bird when it flew past.

A nice location, although there isn't much nice foreground.

Slightly too late, and had the wrong settings again...

...and when the settings were correct it was too late. Damnit.

Good thing that wasn't the only eagle I saw that day. In any case, I took my car and started driving north-east along the main road. The tail end of the bad weather still lingered, and I got a few nice shots of the clouds moving through.

Not a bad place to build a church.

The further I drove, the thicker the clouds got, and soon snow started falling. I was reminded of the drive the day before and took it easy. I wasn't in a hurry anywhere. It wasn't a long drive, and before I knew it, I was at the aquarium. The place looked deserted in the snow storm, but it was open so I walked in and got a ticket.

The aquarium is not that big, and only has local species. I tried to take some photos, but most of them were ruined by the glass. It's tricky to find good angles for the photos, since you basically have to be squared towards the glass, and the fishies and other crawlies typically stay toward the edges. When they do swim in the middle, they are so close to the glass that you pick up all the scratches as well.

I've eaten some of your family.

I had timed my driving so that I'd be at the aquarium when they were feeding some of the animals. One I've seen in person many times, the other not. It was a bit tricky to get a nice angle, and the strong wind and ever-present snow didn't help. But persistence pays off and I got a few nice photos in the end. I'd prefer if these were wild animals, but I'll take what I can get.

It's my spirit animal! <3

Omnomnom.

So cute!

What you typically see of seals. Rarely this close, though :)

I went back inside after the feeding to dry off and check out the rest of the exhibits, and just chilling. I wasn't in a hurry anywhere, the weather being what it was. One of the nicer images I got was this:

Lemme out!

After the aquarium it was time for lunch, so I drove into Kabelvåg for a nice burger; I needed something different than the adventure meals :) The weather did clear a bit while I was eating, so I continued the drive towards the mainland. But I didn't get very far. A truck had stopped seemingly random in the middle of the road and two cars had stopped behind it. I was just wondering what the problem was when the truck put on it's emergency blinkies, so I stopped behind the other cars. A minute later a fire truck stopped beside us and a fireman came to my window. A truck had driven a bit too fast on the road and had lost control. The fireman said that I could wait for them to clear the road, which could take a few hours, or to turn back. I read the local news later, the truck had flipped in a corner and a car of tourists had driven into the back. Luckily no one was hurt, but it had taken quite a while to remove all the fish that had spilled all over the road.

You can probably guess I turned back, and drove even more carefully back towards Leknes. The weather was really bad where the accident had happened, but it soon cleared and I could take some more roadside shots.

Not exactly boating weather.

I love the scale in this photo. That bridge isn't small, but it's still dwarfed by the mountain beside it. And you can't even see the mountaintops!

I was standing on the beach taking the pictures above, enjoying the fast clouds, when I looked back over my shoulder. There was a black lump on the ground that I was pretty sure hadn't been there before. Could it be? I pointed my camera at it since I had a longer lens on, and yes, it was. This time my car was closer, and the bird was sitting still. I was NOT going to mess this up.

Ohai.

The eagle just sat there while I moved gingerly closer. When the eagle turned into the wind, I knew what was happening; large birds like this have to take flight into the wind, especially when it was this windy. And I was ready.

After this particular stop, every time when I put away my camera in the back of the car, I put my birding lens on it. Clearly, there are eagles on Lofoten, lots of them. It was just a question of being ready.

At this point the sunset was closing in, and I still had a drive to get to my sunset location. The problem was that I got distracted. A lot. I stopped twice when an eagle flew overhead, and three times for the scenery. The setting sun produced some absolutely gorgeous light and I just couldn't resist.

Proper winds and new, light snow.

The misty mountains

Sky is turning pink already, come on!

As you can see from the picture above I was, once again, cutting it close. This time I knew that there was no way I'd make it to the location I had planned, so I just stopped by the road where I saw some nice light, and went for it. I could have done without the 50 cm of snow on the beach, but it was mostly just an inconvenience.

The water is just crystal clear around these parts. Too bad someone had dropped something into the sea exactly here...

After sunset more clouds rolled in, so I went back to the apartment for some dinner and much-needed sleep. Even though there might be auroras, there wasn't a chance I'd see them through the clouds. The next day it was time to drive south, to visit the legendary village of Hamnøy

Senja and Lofoten, part 6: Last day in Senja and driving to Lofoten

After the fireworks the evening before, I woke up early feeling maybe not rested, but energetic. I wanted to try to get a similar shot to the first one of the trip, where the sunrise just touches the tops of some mountains. I couldn't really find a great location, but I thought I'd try the beach I was at earlier. There was a gap between the mountains which might be enough for the sun to sneak through.

Pre-dawn blue hour. I was hoping to catch the sun in the water as well, but no such luck.

Turns out the mountains weren't cooperating with me, and I didn't get any rays of sun. It wasn't a big surprise, the chances were low from the beginning. I was just happy to have the energy back after a few crappy mornings. And even if I didn't get a sunrise, there was still one photo I wanted to take while the weather was peaceful. This one is another ripoff from Mr. Heaton, but it doesn't matter to me. It's a nice shot to have. Right next to Hamn, there is a small rocky island with a single house on it. The way to get on the island is a small suspension bridge, which looks pretty cool. The water around the island is so clear you can easily see the sand on the bottom.

I didn't venture far that day, I had way too much fun looking through the images I had shot so far. And I hadn't even gotten to the main attraction yet, the Lofoten islands. While I was looking at the images, I kept tabs on the weather; after many days of blue skies a bank of clouds was making it's way towards me. It didn't look as enough to ruin sunset, fortunately. I just had to pick where I wanted to go.

Even though I had a nice pic from Tungeneset, I decided to go back there for sunset, early enough this time so that I could choose the spot I wanted. The incoming clouds had also brought some waves with them, so I settled down with my composition, taking images while the waves crashed on the rock. There were a few glints of direct sunlight, but the clouds blocked most of the light. That was OK, I had taken a look at the images from the previous day and I knew I had a colorful one already; now I just took another kind of image.

One with (some) color

And one without :)

Very serious. Yes. It took me around 15 tries to get this right; it's tricky when you can't see the composition (or sharpness) when you are in front of the lens.

From the road back to the cabin. The viewing platform of epicness is in the valley top right, looking this way.

Looking back, it really was a productive 4 days on Senja, even if it didn't feel like that at times. I have a lot of photos to be proud of, and I learned a lot taking them. The fact that I've been doing this for more than 6 years and I still have a lot that I don't know is what keeps me going. Although, at times I do wonder why I'm freezing my ass off at the side of a fjord 1500 km from home.

The next day was a travel day again; I had a long drive ahead of me to reach my next accommodation in Leknes. I was hoping that I'd make it in time to get to a sunset location; but with the short days and the long drive, I wasn't sure. This time I did remember to charge to GoPro during the night. 

One thing that I had expected to see during my trip was reindeer. I've seen and heard countless tales of reindeer filling up roads so that you can't pass. I had seen plenty of road signs warning of them and moose during my driving. But the one place I saw reindeer wasn't where I'd expected them.

Umm, hi? Would you mind moving, I have to pack my car.

Thank you! Sorry to disturb. I'll drive away shortly.

The drive itself was pretty crazy. As you can see, it started off well. Around negative 5 degrees and sunshine, it was no problem driving along the beautiful vistas. Then, somewhere after Narvik, the clouds hit. And I mean hit; out of nowhere, I was in a blizzard. And then it cleared. And then I was in a blizzard again. And then it cleared. It was probably the most stressful drive I've ever done. I actually completely forgot to eat lunch that day. I also didn't take any footage of the blizzard, that's how hard I had to concentrate on keeping on the road.

The nice thing about sudden blizzards is that when they leave, they produce absolutely fantastic light. I was lucky enough to catch a few photographs on the way when this happened; they were truly fleeting moments. 

Just some haze over Narvik, this is fine.

Driving through Svolvær, very gingerly.

Probably my favorite image from the whole trip. I got really lucky, being in the right place at the right time.

So, after a long stressful drive with just a few candy bars instead of food, I finally arrived in Leknes. I had chosen Leknes because it is basically in the middle of the south Lofoten islands, and everything was a relatively short drive away. Also, Leknes is a city, and as such it has services available, such as food stores. Which I ignored, because as soon as I had met the landlord and gotten the key, I drove away to get a sunset shot.

My target was the well-known Haukland beach. I was a little too fast though, because I didn't drive all the way there; there are two beaches at Haukland, and the northern one is the 'correct' one. I was in such a rush I didn't even notice. I ran down the beach, found a composition, and snapped off a bracketed exposure. And just like that, the light was gone. The resulting image has a few nice elements, but it's not one of my favorites. For now, it had to do.

The color is weird in this one, I don't really know how to fix it. One of those images I have to come back to in a few months.

The sun set, and I went to the local supermarket to buy myself some dinner. The rest of the evening went into planning; so many locations, so little time. Exhausted, I quickly drifted off to deep sleep.

Senja and Lofoten, part 5: Northern Senja and the Norther Lights, part 3

When my alarm bell rang at 4:30 am, I ignored it. I tried to sleep well into the morning, but only managed a few hours at a time before waking up again. Late in the morning I made breakfast and loaded up the photos from yesterday, eagle first. When I noticed they were all blurry, I was devastated. How could I have been such a numpty?

Looking at the aurora shots next, the only thing I could think of was how I missed the best action completely. And although I had a slightly better foreground, I wasn't happy with the compositions either. All in all, it wasn't a very good morning. Still, I soldiered on; I only had so much time here.

I had two days left on Senja, and the plan as to explore the northern part of the island. There was a nice-looking rest area / picnic spot slightly north of the viewing platform I'd been to before that I wanted to check out. The place is called Tungeneset, and it's basically a smaller outcrop between two larger outcrops of mountain. A very nice place to spend a few hours, which I did. The sea was calm and the sun was out again after the clouds the day before.

Popular place, evidently.

I walked around, trying different compositions, knowing that I'd be back for sunset. After another outdoor lunch, I headed further north along the road to see what I could find. 

Cormorants chilling in the shadow of a mountain.

The village of Mefjordvær doesn't get any sun during winter.

The peaks on the north side do, however. Low tide brings out a lot of great detail on a beach, it's a shame we don't really get tides in Finland.

I didn't cover up the viewfinder when I took this shot, apparently. Light leaked in through the back and produced the magenta cast in the middle of the image. Bothers me quite a bit that; I should've realized while I was taking the shot.

I spent a bit too long at the location above; suddenly I realized that the light was fading fast. This was mostly because there was some clouds on the horizon that were dimming the sun way earlier than sunset. I quickly returned to my car and drove back to the picnic area, which fortunately wasn't that far. I wasn't alone, of course; there were maybe a dozen other photographers out on the rocks already, so I had to pick from the spots that were free. The first few compositions I did I wasn't really happy with; I rushed and it showed. Third time was the charm, though, and I was pretty happy with what I got.

One last one. Composition isn't the best, but hey ho :)

As the light faded, I was mostly thinking of a single thing. Photographing the aurora, and doing it right. The forecast hadn't changed, but this night, I'd be ready. A quick dinner later, I loaded the gear and drove to a place I'd been at before. During the morning, I'd realized that it should provide the perfect vantage point, with better views of the sky and mountains. Tonight, I'd be ready. And boy, did I get a show.

Starting out exactly where I wanted them...

Then exploding over the mountain on the left..

This is only a 3 second exposure. Absolutely epic.

...and doing the grand finale back where I wanted it.

I could scarcely believe it. I've never, ever seen anything like it. And this was level 3 activity; the scale goes to 6. Finally happy with what I had gotten, I turned in for the night.