landscapes

Re-learning how to see and feel - a year after Norway

It took me a while. Almost a year, in fact. But finally, I’m inspired again. I wake up (way too) early for sunrises, I stare out of the office window longingly for sunsets, and I take some time off a lazy weekend to go outside to shoot some birds in the neighborhood. I have my mojo back. But what happened last year?

After returning from Norway (see the last posts for that one), it took me a long while to go through the photos and write about the trip. I was too tired, too exhausted to think about the trip or the pictures. In fact, it took me months to finish processing and writing. When spring arrived last year, I had no inspiration left. I barely took my camera anywhere. Summer came and went. I took pictures, but I wasn’t feeling it. Everything just seemed ‘meh’. Even images that in hindsight are pretty nice felt like crap at the time. I had lost my way.

Looking at my collection, I have way less pictures from last year than any previous. And most of the pictures I do have are from Norway. How could Finland, and especially my little boring corner of Finland, compare to Lofoten? Thinking on it, having my Lofoten and Senja pictures constantly visible as my laptop screensaver probably didn’t help with the melancholy.

I wish I knew what finally snapped me out of it so I can do that sooner next time. But trying to find images for this post, I remember two moments from last year that stand out. And both involve a random animal encounter. Now, the pictures aren’t very good; I was out of practice and messed up the settings on both. But I did get something.

The first one was in late August and I was out at the cottage. Out of old habit, my camera hang off my shoulder (you never know, right?). I saw a dark spot moving in the corner of my eye, above some reeds. I didn’t see what it was, but it caught my attention so I went to take a closer look. I couldn’t see anything, but three ducks I had seen earlier in the same spot had started panicking. And I knew. I lifted my camera and waited. A minute later, a big harrier (Western marsh harrier to be exact) burst forth from the trees to try to grab a duck. It missed, but I didn’t. Much.

After that day, something in me changed. I slowly started trying again. I drove out to the usual spots a few times in search of sunset colors. The topmost photo is the only decent one of the bunch, but it was something. That wasn’t the second trigger though; that was another chance encounter, a few hundred meters from my apartment building. I was out taking potshots at small birds late in November, during one of the few sunny days we had during the lovely (not really) early winter. I was crouched in a bush, trying to get a few Blackbirds to pose for me beside a small stream that runs through the area, when I saw something I’d never though I’d see in the city. A mink. I don’t know if it was just passing through or if it lives here. I’ve never seen it before, and haven’t seen it since. But I did get a picture.

Winter arrived along with the typical darkness, smothering all hope of taking pictures outside. December in Turku is typically wet, dark and miserable, and this year wasn’t any different. But in January, we got finally got snow. And with the snow and sunny days, I started feeling strange urges. Against my better judgement, during multiple days, I set my alarm clock to ring earlier than it had any right to. I put on a lot of clothes, packed my bag, and went in search for sunrise photos.

Of course, when you actually start trying, you’ll find that nature can be a cruel mistress. I didn’t get light a single time I went out. Those beautiful pink still mornings? Nowhere to be seen. But I can be a bit pigheaded with these things, and took pictures anyway. I worked with what I had. I took my time and thought about composition. I pre-planned locations, times and angle of light. And even though the vast majority of pictures aren’t worthy of an audience, I did it again and again.

I was hoping for 1) mist to cover the back trees or 2) beautiful colors in the sky, or 3) anything. But I learned what works and what doesn’t. And to not rush things.

Going out to try, even though I had no guarantees to get anything, was the best thing I’ve done for myself for a long, long time. Standing on the golf course above, an hour before sunrise, composition ready, waiting for the light, and with such absolute stillness and silence around me is one of the best memories I have of the whole year. It doesn’t matter that the pictures didn’t turn out the way I wanted; I still have something to remember the experience with. And I think all that practice taught me a few things.

Oftentimes, as much as you plan, you don’t get anything. Sometimes, you get something completely different to what you expect. A very, very cold day late January I took a good friend skiing to a nearby nature reserve. Turns out it’s no fun skiing in almost -20 degrees, so I only had about one and a half hour for my own thing. The plan was to take a panorama of the snow-covered marsh, with a snow-covered forest as a wall in the distance. A simple but effective image that represents the Finnish winter perfectly. I ended up getting distracted pretty quickly. And I’m glad I did.

These sort of crystals only form when it’s very cold. I typically don’t have extension tubes with me, but this time I did. And I definitely did not notice the out of focus reflection until I lined up the twig in my viewfinder. But as soon as I saw it, the training kicked in; I must’ve spent 10 minutes just lining up the branch, my tripod and the background. I took dozens of pictures with different focus and different apertures to get what I wanted. I knocked the branch multiple times, making me wait for it to stop swinging. I was so worried I had destroyed the ice crystals each and every time i messed up. But I didn’t. And I produced a proper Photograph, for the first time in almost a year.

After that photo, it feels like the flood gates have opened. I go out multiple times a week. I think about composition, I plan ahead and I make sure I’m not rushed. I’ve found a calmness I can’t remember having, ever. Luckily, that also works well with the Finnish winter. I feel like I’ve been able to capture the cold serenity I experienced. Not by chance, but skill.

But the pictures aren’t the point. What’s way, way more important is I now reserve time for myself, to be outside, to enjoy nature once again. I don’t care that there aren’t any mountains, any fjords, any racing rivers. I can appreciate the nature around me for what it is. The pictures from the last few weeks are some of the best I have ever taken. But they are nothing compared to once again having opened my eyes and seeing the world around me. I hope I never loose that again.

Senja and Lofoten, part 6: Last day in Senja and driving to Lofoten

After the fireworks the evening before, I woke up early feeling maybe not rested, but energetic. I wanted to try to get a similar shot to the first one of the trip, where the sunrise just touches the tops of some mountains. I couldn't really find a great location, but I thought I'd try the beach I was at earlier. There was a gap between the mountains which might be enough for the sun to sneak through.

Pre-dawn blue hour. I was hoping to catch the sun in the water as well, but no such luck.

Turns out the mountains weren't cooperating with me, and I didn't get any rays of sun. It wasn't a big surprise, the chances were low from the beginning. I was just happy to have the energy back after a few crappy mornings. And even if I didn't get a sunrise, there was still one photo I wanted to take while the weather was peaceful. This one is another ripoff from Mr. Heaton, but it doesn't matter to me. It's a nice shot to have. Right next to Hamn, there is a small rocky island with a single house on it. The way to get on the island is a small suspension bridge, which looks pretty cool. The water around the island is so clear you can easily see the sand on the bottom.

I didn't venture far that day, I had way too much fun looking through the images I had shot so far. And I hadn't even gotten to the main attraction yet, the Lofoten islands. While I was looking at the images, I kept tabs on the weather; after many days of blue skies a bank of clouds was making it's way towards me. It didn't look as enough to ruin sunset, fortunately. I just had to pick where I wanted to go.

Even though I had a nice pic from Tungeneset, I decided to go back there for sunset, early enough this time so that I could choose the spot I wanted. The incoming clouds had also brought some waves with them, so I settled down with my composition, taking images while the waves crashed on the rock. There were a few glints of direct sunlight, but the clouds blocked most of the light. That was OK, I had taken a look at the images from the previous day and I knew I had a colorful one already; now I just took another kind of image.

One with (some) color

And one without :)

Very serious. Yes. It took me around 15 tries to get this right; it's tricky when you can't see the composition (or sharpness) when you are in front of the lens.

From the road back to the cabin. The viewing platform of epicness is in the valley top right, looking this way.

Looking back, it really was a productive 4 days on Senja, even if it didn't feel like that at times. I have a lot of photos to be proud of, and I learned a lot taking them. The fact that I've been doing this for more than 6 years and I still have a lot that I don't know is what keeps me going. Although, at times I do wonder why I'm freezing my ass off at the side of a fjord 1500 km from home.

The next day was a travel day again; I had a long drive ahead of me to reach my next accommodation in Leknes. I was hoping that I'd make it in time to get to a sunset location; but with the short days and the long drive, I wasn't sure. This time I did remember to charge to GoPro during the night. 

One thing that I had expected to see during my trip was reindeer. I've seen and heard countless tales of reindeer filling up roads so that you can't pass. I had seen plenty of road signs warning of them and moose during my driving. But the one place I saw reindeer wasn't where I'd expected them.

Umm, hi? Would you mind moving, I have to pack my car.

Thank you! Sorry to disturb. I'll drive away shortly.

The drive itself was pretty crazy. As you can see, it started off well. Around negative 5 degrees and sunshine, it was no problem driving along the beautiful vistas. Then, somewhere after Narvik, the clouds hit. And I mean hit; out of nowhere, I was in a blizzard. And then it cleared. And then I was in a blizzard again. And then it cleared. It was probably the most stressful drive I've ever done. I actually completely forgot to eat lunch that day. I also didn't take any footage of the blizzard, that's how hard I had to concentrate on keeping on the road.

The nice thing about sudden blizzards is that when they leave, they produce absolutely fantastic light. I was lucky enough to catch a few photographs on the way when this happened; they were truly fleeting moments. 

Just some haze over Narvik, this is fine.

Driving through Svolvær, very gingerly.

Probably my favorite image from the whole trip. I got really lucky, being in the right place at the right time.

So, after a long stressful drive with just a few candy bars instead of food, I finally arrived in Leknes. I had chosen Leknes because it is basically in the middle of the south Lofoten islands, and everything was a relatively short drive away. Also, Leknes is a city, and as such it has services available, such as food stores. Which I ignored, because as soon as I had met the landlord and gotten the key, I drove away to get a sunset shot.

My target was the well-known Haukland beach. I was a little too fast though, because I didn't drive all the way there; there are two beaches at Haukland, and the northern one is the 'correct' one. I was in such a rush I didn't even notice. I ran down the beach, found a composition, and snapped off a bracketed exposure. And just like that, the light was gone. The resulting image has a few nice elements, but it's not one of my favorites. For now, it had to do.

The color is weird in this one, I don't really know how to fix it. One of those images I have to come back to in a few months.

The sun set, and I went to the local supermarket to buy myself some dinner. The rest of the evening went into planning; so many locations, so little time. Exhausted, I quickly drifted off to deep sleep.

Senja and Lofoten, part 3: The real trip begins

As I mentioned earlier, I only had two nights reserved in Tromso. This was mostly because it would have taken too long to drive directly to Senja, but I also wanted to see Tromso and the landscapes around it. That done, I checked out of the hotel, packed my car and headed toward the first "real" destination, the island of Senja.

This day I also saw the first eagle of the trip; while I was driving out of Tromso, it just landed right next to the road to contest the catch of a few seagulls. It was less than 30 meters from me, and there was nothing I could do. Oh well, that turned out OK in the end, there were some on Lofoten too :)

The drive wasn't that long, but boy, was it pretty. Especially the first third. As you can see above, there's a lot of mountains on the way, and I do like me some mountains :) The issue is the typical; the roads are not built with photographers in mind (I know, right??) and the rest stops are few and far between. I did manage to get some photos along the road though, but not a lot of timelapse footage as I was a doofus and forgot to charge the GoPro during the night and had to do it while driving instead. 

The roads get much smaller when you get to the actual island, and the traffic pretty much stopped as well. I was a bit nervous before my trip if I'd manage to drive on the smaller country roads, but there wasn't really any issue. The locals keep the roads in good condition; after all, they need to use them daily themselves.

View from one of the few rest stops along the highway.

Of course I wasn't the only tourist here :)

Look back towards Tromso, the road follows the fjord to the right.

That fox lives in a pretty place.

Mountain detail.

I had plenty of time to drive so I decided to do a quick recon of the sunset location I had chosen. This one was pretty easy; it was a location I got from Thomas Heatons video I talked about earlier. The sunset was going to be at a slightly more awkward angle then when he did his trip, but it would still hit the mountain sides in the fjord. I drove up there, took a look around to make sure everything was good, enjoyed the views, and headed back to the place where I was going to stay. After a quick chat with the host and a shopping trip, I was ready for sunset.

The drive up to the location was ... interesting the first time. Basically, it is a hill climb. It has an 8% rise, with twisty turns, and the surface was partly covered in ice. I was slightly worried my car wouldn't make it, actually. This was the first proper test for my winter driving, and it went completely fine. no problems whatsoever. This second time I took a time lapse of it. I also took a time lapse of me photographing the sunset. They turned out OK:

The location itself is one of the few structures on the trip that seems to be built with photography in mind. It's called Bergsbotn utsiktsplattform (Bergsbotn viewing platform), and it's built on the side of a hill, at a corner of the serpentine road. The views, as you'd expect, are spectacular. Unfortunately it was very cold and windy, so I couldn't enjoy the location fully as I was freezing my butt off. I still got a few nice images, and as a bonus, I met a Finnish pair who happened to stop at the same location on their way. Small world, and all that.

15 minutes to go. This was taken with an 8 stop ND filter; I guess I need to get a 10 stop.

View back towards the pass and tunnel. It's tricky to capture the scale of mountains when you are so close, but these weren't small.

Last rays of the sun, and last photo of the day. Or so I thought.

I was quite cold and hungry at this point, so I headed to my cabin for some food and warmth. Although I was a bit tired, the clock wasn't more than 8 in the evening after I'd finally managed to get some food in me. Also, I couldn't stop thinking about a certain thing. During my chat with the host earlier, he had asked me if I'm interested in auroras. Very much so, I told him. He said that the auroras are visible most nights if it's clear, and which direction they would be visible at. And although the forecast didn't promise any fireworks, I was tense. I've seen auroras before, but never 'properly'; they always been low on the horizon or hidden behind light pollution from cities. Out here, there were no cities, and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. And I wasn't sure I'd have the technical skills to capture them even if I saw them. 

At around 9pm, as I was trying to look out of the windows, I finally gave up, and started putting on clothes. I decided to take a short walk along the beach the host said offered the best views. It was pitch black, very cold, and very windy, but I just had to. After a few minutes my eyes adjusted to the dark, and I looked up. And there it was. A faint green mist, covering the stars. It didn't have a specific form, it was just.. everywhere. I just stood there and waited, and the aurora grew stronger. Now I could see streaks forming and the color getting more intense. I almost ran back to the cabin to put on even more clothes, and get my gear. When I got back and got my stuff set up, I took this:

Calibration shot for finding the settings. It's slightly off, but not too bad.

When the camera showed me the first picture in the back, I just burst out laughing. All the tenseness just vanished, and I was ecstatic. There would be no issue with the camera, I knew right there and then that this was going to be awesome.

I spent almost two hours out in the cold, watching, shooting and moving. The northern lights are almost never static; they move around and shift in intensity. You need to decide what kind of photo you want, and you might not get the aurora in the correct position even though you wait the whole night. This particular evening, I just shot everything. It was a test run mostly; I tested different settings, compositions, and controlling the camera in the dark. I wanted to be ready for the next time; after all, these auroras were not very strong (the camera actually sees more than the naked eye, the color was less intense for me when I looked at the lights). 

After the aurora faded around 11pm, I walked back to the cabin. I had nearly a hundred photos. Some were exposed completely wrong, and many were out of focus. But there was one I was quite happy with. Even though this was only the first night of shooting auroras, I was happy. 

If this was a level 2 aurora, what will a level 5 look like?

Turns out, the northern lights had more in store for me.