Quick trip to Kökar

Around where I live, in the Turku region, there aren't really any grandiose landscapes. In fact, they are so boring (to me at least) that I decided to go to Norway a few years ago, and start this blog :) So, coming back from Iceland I had a tough few weeks; I wanted to take awesome pictures, but I had basically no money and not a lot of energy for travelling. But I remembered something I had though about a few years earlier; camping out in the archipelago and trying to get images out there.

MY dads cabin, as nice at it is, isn't out in what I call the 'real' archipelago. Yes, it's by the sea, on an island, but there is no place where you could see nothing but sea; it's simply not far enough from the coast. Luckily, Finland has very good public transportation, that also covers the major islands of the archipelago.

The island of Kökar is one of the biggest islands in the Turku / Åland archipelago, and it is also the most isolated big island of them all. All it took was a weather report promising proper thunderstorms for a weekend, and my mind was set. I packed the car with my gear and my tent, and headed to Korpo, from where I took the ferry to Kökar.

The plan was to spend two nights at a camping ground on the northwestern end of the island. That would give me good access to the coastline, giving me locations for sunrise, sunset, and possible storms. The reason I was interested in the storms is that they can produce some of the most dramatic skies you've ever seen; having a storm-front roll in over the archipelago, or having a storm clear way for the sun is a sight to behold. That was what I wanted to capture.

The first of two evenings, there wasn't a cloud in sight, but I went out to the coastline with my gear to do some location scouting. There are a few hiking trails in that part of the island that I quickly found, and I made my way through the trees towards the coast. After scaring a small family of deer, I got to the beach and started looking around. It was a great location, unfortunately the blue sky made it almost useless to photograph. Still, I looked around, and took some snapshots of possible locations for later.

One thing that I did decide to take a photo of that evening was the church. There is a small village church and graveyard on a small hill by the northern side of the island. It wasn't far away, so I walked there along the coast. I quickly found that if I wanted the church visible, there was only one direction I could take the photo from; luckily, the sun was setting in the same direction.

Not my best,  but it's not too shabby.

While taking the picture above I noticed something; I had left my jacket in the car,  and it was getting a bit chilly. So chilly, in fact, that in my hurry to get back to my jacket, I missed focus on a panorama I took from the same location. I took all 35 exposures for the HDR panorama, and I realized they were blurry only the next day. In my defense, I was cold and hungry.

Back at the tent, I first put on some proper clothing, and then cooked some dinner. The storm was supposed to hit the next day, and there was supposed to be partial cloud cover during sunrise. One of the ideas I had for the trip was to take a sunrise pic of the camping ground harbor, so I set my watch for 4:30 and went to bed.

There were dozens of these snails around my tent immediately after the sun went down.

The next morning, I looked out of my tent and decided begrudgingly that the weather forecast was right and that there might be a nice sunrise. I'm not a morning person, at all, but the things I do for photos... After about ten or fifteen minutes of walking through the thick bush I got to a rock overlooking the harbor and the sunrise, and set up my tripod. I still don't really know what I did wrong, but Lightroom and photoshop simply refuse to stitch the photos I took that morning into a nice straight panoramic. I've spent hours on straightening it, and luckily I've gotten it into something that almost resembles reality:

The morning was amazing, though. I sat on a rock by my camera, looking at the clouds rolling in from the right and the sun rising from the left. I have a lot of raw photos from that morning, my hope is that some day I'll bother to process all of them and see if some might be better than the one above. For now, I can't be bothered.

The storm came later that day. It was the biggest storm of the summer, actually. Or so the news said. It missed Kökar completely. We only got some rain with uniform grey skies. Best laid plans, and all that... I spent the day mostly doing nothing, sitting and watching the sea. A few hours later the showers of rain cleared out, so I took the chance and walked out to the beach again. 

Chillin'. If you look closely, you can see a seal's head above my shoe, some way out to sea.

There is something calming about the sea. I could spend hours just sitting and watching it. Well, I did. And I have before. Some time before sunset, I started to look for sunset compositions. I had already photographed the church, so I wasn't that interested in it. Besides, I didn't want anything man-made in my shot. This was going to be a picture of the wast calmness of the outer archipelago at sunset.

Gaps had started to appear in the clouds too, so I had a chance for a great sunset. After changing my composition three times, I set my tripod down, made my camera ready, and waited. The clouds were thickest at the horizon, but there was a small gap just above it. Maybe, with luck, the sun would get through there.

All in all, a nice evening. Even though I didn't get the storm clouds, I was happy I got something. Also, sitting at the beach all day was quite relaxing.

The next morning, it rained. Also, I discovered my tent isn't rainproof anymore. No wonder, it's probably 15 years old at this point. Still, not a happy morning for me. Good thing I had my car with me, it was easy to dump everything in it and pack up the tent. The rain continued for most of the day, but I did manage to take this:

Another rain cloud rolling in.

I was going to go to the beach, but it was raining and I was lazy. The cloud above might have looked great at the correct location... Anyway, that was it for this short trip. The rains continued for the whole trip back, even though they were quite sporadic. On the ferry back to Korpo I took the final image of the trip:

Not quite what I wanted, but it'll do.

All in all a good trip; I didn't get the photo I was planning to, but I did have a few relaxing day out by the sea. And in my book, that's a win.

Iceland, part 5; wrapping things up

So, the last day had arrived. The weather was still doing its thing. After we had eaten breakfast and taken down our tents (some managed to do it the other way around), we discussed the plans of the day. It was pretty straight forward; do the hill climb that we didn't do the day before, and head back towards Reykjavik.

This hill was considerably smaller than the last one, but offered some nice views anyway. Halfway up I took this:

Apparently we ruffled some feathers; this little guy kept shouting at us at the top.

The weather being what it was, black-and-white made most sense. And boy, were there images to be had. I'd rate this higher than the first hill we climbed, by far. Or maybe it was just the considerably easier climb :)

Yeah. One of the best photographs from the entire trip.

Hill detail.

Tight section from the first image; simple, but effective. The cloudy hilltop makes the image.

Although I ended up doing a lot of black-and-white, some of the color shots worked out well too.

Panorama, because why not.

Flat, smooth hill, ragged hill, weather. Layers and layers.

As there was no hurry anywhere, we spent quite some time up on the hill, searching for compositions. I think we were all glad just to take it easy and try different things; at least I was pretty drained at this point. Don't get me wrong, I liked the views very much, but I was ready to go home. Eventually, we did head downwards to the van. Some of you might have noticed that we weren't that far from camp. We weren't, but we took the van anyway; tells a tale about the state of the group, doesn't it. Anyway, once down the hill, we noticed two riders coming down along the road. They probably saw us, and decided to take the scenic route.

On the way down.

Horsies!

After that, we packed up the remainder of our things and started the journey back. We did stop by a crater lake on the way, but the inevitable rain ruined that for me, so the above is my last photograph from thew trip. Well, second to last:

Yes, weather, screw you too.

I did manage to snag an emergency row seat on the flight back, which was nice. Once on the plane I finally had some me-time to think about the trip (the whole morning after the hotel in Reykjavik, bus ride, baggage drop and boarding was crazy hectic). I still had no clue if I had any good images. I was very, very tired. I also realized I only saw the sun once the plane got above the clouds; somehow, we had gone the whole week without seeing it.

Was the whole thing worth it, you may ask? Monetary, no. Even without the photo workshop itself, Iceland is a very expensive country. Weather-wise, maybe. Better weather would have produced better pictures, more locations, and more activities (we didn't get to use the kayaks, for instance). But then again, many of the photos I have work exactly because of the weather. Clear blue skies would have been worse, but I could have done with some dry in between.

For the photos, then? After spending a few weeks looking at them, definitely. As I mentioned in the last post, I was skeptical before I could see them on the big screen. I've always had trouble visualizing the final product while seeing the image in the back of the camera. Luckily, I seem to have developed good instincts on what works and what doesn't. That will help me to not stress about things out in the field in the future.

Finally, was it worth it for the experience? Yes. A hundred times yes. Iceland has been on my bucket list since before I started taking pictures, let alone photographs. Although much of the landscape looks like other mountainous areas, such as Norway, there is just something about Iceland that makes it unique. Having a dedicated guide was so convenient; many of the locations are not on tourist maps. Even though it turned out I didn't ask Tom for much advice in the end, I still learned a lot by just watching him work and giving advice to the others. Tom actually said "Sorry I'm not spending a lot of time with you; it's not that I don't like you, its just it looks like you don't need it.". To me, that's quite the praise. We still had a few good bits of discussion.

The trip did clarify a lot of things for me, personally and photographically. I'm more confident. I'm more methodological. I'm taking things slower, thinking things through. All of those things are what I knew I wasn't very good at before. I'm slowly learning. I can't wait for my next trip, I already have some ideas.

Iceland, part 4; magical unicorn land

So, recap so far; a bit of sun on Monday, and a lot of wind and rain for two days after that. On Thursday morning, we finally caught a break.

The picture probably tells most of the story. We arrived as the clouds were starting to go pink. Even though we didn't see the actual sun, there was a break in the clouds in the correct spot on the horizon, and the color just got better and better as all of us were firing away. The morning light lasted for about half an hour, but it was all we needed. The moment was simply magical.

Tighter crop. Still awesome.

After the sunrise we finally went to bed, it was 4:30 am at that point. After a good sleep, we woke up for the last full day of the trip. We had plans for two hikes; one through the lava flow and out into the flat meadow we walked by the first day, the second up another hill nearby. As it wasn't raining (much) I went out to take a few images I was waiting to take since day one; the weather had gotten in the way previously.

Same pic as last night, with more light.

Green stone? Sure.

The two hills we climbed the first evening.

Three of us had already seen the lava fields earlier, but we had turned to a different direction just after it. Now we ventured out onto the plain, crossing small streams as we went. Some of them were pretty deep, and some of them were boiling.

View back to the camp from the lava field.

The little patch was boiling ferociously; what better way to remind us we were over active lava.

I have many pictures of the streams and the sand, but this one and the following are my favorites. I was just about to shout 'don't step in the ...'. I'm glad she did.

Some had a better stream-crossing tactic than others.

I should have put more time into this picture (long exposure pun intended).

We headed for the waterfall above, which turned out to be bigger than it looked. We spent some time at it, a few people climbing the rocks on the left side to see if there was a composition to be found. Afterwards, we headed to another ravine a bit further in; this one had steam vents on both sides. It looked very Icelandic. On the way, we got distracted and had to stop briefly when we saw a S-curve in the rivers. Landscape photographers do love their S-curves :)

Tom doing some filming.

Them curves.

More curves! More!

This small canyon was quite the sight.

There was still a slight drizzle in the air as the clouds moved around the nearby hills. When shooting the small canyon, we only had to turn around to see this:

Sheep for scale :)

All in all, we were out for about for hours; I was soaked, sweaty and tired. And we still had one hike to go. We headed back to the camp site and made some burgers, discussing this and that. The weather hadn't gotten any better, and there was zero chance for a nice sunset or sunrise, again. We decided to move the hike to the next morning and get a good nights sleep, since the view from the destination would look the same at sunrise or noon because of the cloud cover.

The burgers and change of plans left me in a better mood, and I noticed I wasn't that tired anymore (we had gotten up very late, after all). So I walked up and down the riverbank to see if there was any angle I'd missed from before, just in case.

I was drawn to the symmetry here.

Again, S-curves :)

After an hour or so, I went to bed tired; the next day would be our last. I was sick of the constant rain. We hadn't seen the sun since Monday morning. And although we had gotten an amazing sunrise, I wasn't sure if I had any good pictures yet. Not having my laptop to check the images was beginning to eat on me.

As you can see, I shouldn't have been worried. But I was. I fell asleep hoping for some sun, but mostly hoping I'd get back home, to a warm, dry bed.