Finland

Re-learning how to see and feel - a year after Norway

It took me a while. Almost a year, in fact. But finally, I’m inspired again. I wake up (way too) early for sunrises, I stare out of the office window longingly for sunsets, and I take some time off a lazy weekend to go outside to shoot some birds in the neighborhood. I have my mojo back. But what happened last year?

After returning from Norway (see the last posts for that one), it took me a long while to go through the photos and write about the trip. I was too tired, too exhausted to think about the trip or the pictures. In fact, it took me months to finish processing and writing. When spring arrived last year, I had no inspiration left. I barely took my camera anywhere. Summer came and went. I took pictures, but I wasn’t feeling it. Everything just seemed ‘meh’. Even images that in hindsight are pretty nice felt like crap at the time. I had lost my way.

Looking at my collection, I have way less pictures from last year than any previous. And most of the pictures I do have are from Norway. How could Finland, and especially my little boring corner of Finland, compare to Lofoten? Thinking on it, having my Lofoten and Senja pictures constantly visible as my laptop screensaver probably didn’t help with the melancholy.

I wish I knew what finally snapped me out of it so I can do that sooner next time. But trying to find images for this post, I remember two moments from last year that stand out. And both involve a random animal encounter. Now, the pictures aren’t very good; I was out of practice and messed up the settings on both. But I did get something.

The first one was in late August and I was out at the cottage. Out of old habit, my camera hang off my shoulder (you never know, right?). I saw a dark spot moving in the corner of my eye, above some reeds. I didn’t see what it was, but it caught my attention so I went to take a closer look. I couldn’t see anything, but three ducks I had seen earlier in the same spot had started panicking. And I knew. I lifted my camera and waited. A minute later, a big harrier (Western marsh harrier to be exact) burst forth from the trees to try to grab a duck. It missed, but I didn’t. Much.

After that day, something in me changed. I slowly started trying again. I drove out to the usual spots a few times in search of sunset colors. The topmost photo is the only decent one of the bunch, but it was something. That wasn’t the second trigger though; that was another chance encounter, a few hundred meters from my apartment building. I was out taking potshots at small birds late in November, during one of the few sunny days we had during the lovely (not really) early winter. I was crouched in a bush, trying to get a few Blackbirds to pose for me beside a small stream that runs through the area, when I saw something I’d never though I’d see in the city. A mink. I don’t know if it was just passing through or if it lives here. I’ve never seen it before, and haven’t seen it since. But I did get a picture.

Winter arrived along with the typical darkness, smothering all hope of taking pictures outside. December in Turku is typically wet, dark and miserable, and this year wasn’t any different. But in January, we got finally got snow. And with the snow and sunny days, I started feeling strange urges. Against my better judgement, during multiple days, I set my alarm clock to ring earlier than it had any right to. I put on a lot of clothes, packed my bag, and went in search for sunrise photos.

Of course, when you actually start trying, you’ll find that nature can be a cruel mistress. I didn’t get light a single time I went out. Those beautiful pink still mornings? Nowhere to be seen. But I can be a bit pigheaded with these things, and took pictures anyway. I worked with what I had. I took my time and thought about composition. I pre-planned locations, times and angle of light. And even though the vast majority of pictures aren’t worthy of an audience, I did it again and again.

I was hoping for 1) mist to cover the back trees or 2) beautiful colors in the sky, or 3) anything. But I learned what works and what doesn’t. And to not rush things.

Going out to try, even though I had no guarantees to get anything, was the best thing I’ve done for myself for a long, long time. Standing on the golf course above, an hour before sunrise, composition ready, waiting for the light, and with such absolute stillness and silence around me is one of the best memories I have of the whole year. It doesn’t matter that the pictures didn’t turn out the way I wanted; I still have something to remember the experience with. And I think all that practice taught me a few things.

Oftentimes, as much as you plan, you don’t get anything. Sometimes, you get something completely different to what you expect. A very, very cold day late January I took a good friend skiing to a nearby nature reserve. Turns out it’s no fun skiing in almost -20 degrees, so I only had about one and a half hour for my own thing. The plan was to take a panorama of the snow-covered marsh, with a snow-covered forest as a wall in the distance. A simple but effective image that represents the Finnish winter perfectly. I ended up getting distracted pretty quickly. And I’m glad I did.

These sort of crystals only form when it’s very cold. I typically don’t have extension tubes with me, but this time I did. And I definitely did not notice the out of focus reflection until I lined up the twig in my viewfinder. But as soon as I saw it, the training kicked in; I must’ve spent 10 minutes just lining up the branch, my tripod and the background. I took dozens of pictures with different focus and different apertures to get what I wanted. I knocked the branch multiple times, making me wait for it to stop swinging. I was so worried I had destroyed the ice crystals each and every time i messed up. But I didn’t. And I produced a proper Photograph, for the first time in almost a year.

After that photo, it feels like the flood gates have opened. I go out multiple times a week. I think about composition, I plan ahead and I make sure I’m not rushed. I’ve found a calmness I can’t remember having, ever. Luckily, that also works well with the Finnish winter. I feel like I’ve been able to capture the cold serenity I experienced. Not by chance, but skill.

But the pictures aren’t the point. What’s way, way more important is I now reserve time for myself, to be outside, to enjoy nature once again. I don’t care that there aren’t any mountains, any fjords, any racing rivers. I can appreciate the nature around me for what it is. The pictures from the last few weeks are some of the best I have ever taken. But they are nothing compared to once again having opened my eyes and seeing the world around me. I hope I never loose that again.

Finally some snow!

If you don't live in Finland, you might think that the winters here are snow-filled and beautiful, the low-hanging sun bathing everything in a wonderful glow. Well, it can be. But where I live, the truth is that winter can suck. Especially in November an December, when the days are getting short and the rain starts pelting down. It's quite typical not to see the sun for weeks on end. The sun rises at 9:30 and sets at 15:30, and when it's overcast it never gets very bright even mid day.

All of that gloom usually has a definitive effect on my mood, that sometimes can be helped with some short trips out to the cabin, and sometimes not. This year was one of those sucky years where I felt miserable the whole time. I actually had to resort to more food photography! More on that later.

As many other photographers, I've been watching a lot of YouTube, hoping a few of my favorites would have some inspiring words. What I got instead, was beautiful, snow and ice-filled woodland and landscapes.. from the UK. If you want to take a look yourself, here's an example from Simon Baxter, who does some beautiful, low-key woodland photography. All in all, I had been waiting for good weather for a few months already. And then, a week after new years, it finally happened. Sun! Cold! Snow! 

Instead of going to my normal places, I decided to go to Kurjenrahka National Park just north of Turku where I live. The reason was twofold; firstly, I had never been there and wanted to check it out, and secondly, I was pretty sure there wouldn't be that many people around. After a short drive I found the parking lot, and swung on my backpack. Almost immediately, I found my first composition.

What drew me to the sight was, well, firstly, I literally walked into it. I was about 50 meters from the parking lot (I could still see my car), but a picture is a picture, so who cares as long as the car isn't in the shot :) Secondly, I liked how the strong tree on the left is contrasted by the thinner, fallen one, and the even thinner felled one. And third, I was super lucky and the sun slightly lit up the trees behind my main subjects, creating nice contrast (in the center of the frame). The path (although you can't really see it in the photo) goes from the bottom off to the right, sidestepping some heaped logs.

One thing I was very strict with this particular day; I always had my camera packed, without a lens on. I also had my tripod with me, and was adamant of using it every single shot. Why? It slows you down. It allowed me to just walk through the forest, looking at nature and enjoying myself. Every now and then something caught my eye; those are the potential photographs. At that point I'd look closer, trying to figure out why I liked it. Many times it wasn't anything worth of a photo, so I left my camera in the bag.

Sometimes, it was most definitely a photo. For those, I took off my backpack so that I could move a bit better, and started to frame the picture in my mind; what focal length would I need, where to put the edges of the frame, how was the light. When I started to think like this, something just clicked. I think I kind of understand the 'take it slow' mentality now. To cap it off, I stumbled on this.

I first noticed the fallen tree, there were in fact two of them, lying almost parallel (the other one is to the left, out of frame). Second, I noticed the light, spilling through from the open area just behind the trees. The sun was out in full force, which really isn't all that much this time of year, but it was just perfect. I found the right spot (without the camera), set up the tripod and camera there, and took the image. Then I packed everything into my bag again, just like my YouTube mentors.

This was turning out to be a really nice day. It was the first time in weeks that I'd seen the sun, I was out in a beautiful forest, and I was getting some photography done. The fact that the area was completely new to me just added to the sense of discovery.

After the photo above, I reached the edge of the forest, where a big swamp started. There were small clouds going in and out in front of the sun, bathing everything in the golden light one minute, and into a blueish gloom the other. I climbed up a bird-watching tower to take in a view over the marshes. Beautiful, but not really worthy of a photo. Some places are just like that; while you are there, it's great, but you just can't capture it. Instead, I tried to think about what made the place so great, to see if I could hone in on that. 

What I saw in front of me was frozen, snow-covered marshland, with small trees everywhere, occasionally in beautiful light. So, it just made sense to me to try to capture that; a simple detail in a vast landscape, that nevertheless tells the story. I tried multiple angles, never being quite happy. I was looking for a single small tree, with nice side light, and a nice white background. I knew there was a lot of marsh to find the picture in, but the clock was against me and I started panicking (taking photos without a tripod). Here are a few of the not-so-good captures I tried:

Small tree, golden light, background. Yes? No. I think it's too cluttered: I wanted simple, this is not it. The two trees were nice though.

Same tree, taken from a higher vantage point to contrast with the snow behind. This makes the tree more isolated. I didn't like this one either.

Maybe towards the sun? I like this one even less. There is too much contrast, and too much stuff going on.

As I was taking the photos above, I started thinking again; the idea was still valid, but my execution was flawed. I wanted simplicity, but was trying to include everything in the frame. I remembered a shot I had taken an hour or do earlier, just to get it. At the time, I thought it was a bit cliche, I just happened to be in the right place when the sun hit a small tree in a clearing. Now, it was everything I was looking for, but couldn't find out in the marsh.

It doesn't have to be difficult. I know it's been done before, but I don't care.

The composition isn't perfect; there's a small tree on the right side that I'd get rid of. The bigger tree in the background should be slightly more to the left. But it's still a nice picture. So, I gave up my search for a small tree in the marsh, and started to think about returning to the car. At this point was around two o'clock, meaning I had about an hour of sunlight left. I'd been out for three hours already, and I was very content with the images I already had. As a final image, I decided to capture the slight s-curve of the path through the marsh; the light was still nice, and s-curves are almost always good subjects. I had to wait about 15 minutes for the sun to show and a few families to get out of shot, but I think was worth it. Having my tripod out again meant I just had to wait for the right time, and press the shutter. No need to re-frame or remember where you where standing.

After driving home and making some food, I looked out my kitchen window to see a beautiful pink sunset. I knew it was a possibility when I left the park; but I was still happy even though I didn't capture it. I knew I had some keepers on the memory card, slowly warming up in my camera bag.

Finally, a few things I learned during the Sunday trip:

  1. If you think it might be good weather for a photo or two, don't hesitate, just go.
  2. Pack all lenses you have, an extra battery, and an extra memory card.
  3. Do not walk around with your camera out. Take your time. Enjoy. The photos will show themselves.
  4. Light is everything. I know it sounds dumb, but I think I'm finally getting it.

Also, I am really starting to dislike my 18-200mm lens. It's just not up to par with my other lenses. Those aren't superb either, but this particular one is really, really bad at most focal lengths. Makes me think on what I'm going to do for my return trip to Norway in a few months...

Quick trip to Kökar

Around where I live, in the Turku region, there aren't really any grandiose landscapes. In fact, they are so boring (to me at least) that I decided to go to Norway a few years ago, and start this blog :) So, coming back from Iceland I had a tough few weeks; I wanted to take awesome pictures, but I had basically no money and not a lot of energy for travelling. But I remembered something I had though about a few years earlier; camping out in the archipelago and trying to get images out there.

MY dads cabin, as nice at it is, isn't out in what I call the 'real' archipelago. Yes, it's by the sea, on an island, but there is no place where you could see nothing but sea; it's simply not far enough from the coast. Luckily, Finland has very good public transportation, that also covers the major islands of the archipelago.

The island of Kökar is one of the biggest islands in the Turku / Åland archipelago, and it is also the most isolated big island of them all. All it took was a weather report promising proper thunderstorms for a weekend, and my mind was set. I packed the car with my gear and my tent, and headed to Korpo, from where I took the ferry to Kökar.

The plan was to spend two nights at a camping ground on the northwestern end of the island. That would give me good access to the coastline, giving me locations for sunrise, sunset, and possible storms. The reason I was interested in the storms is that they can produce some of the most dramatic skies you've ever seen; having a storm-front roll in over the archipelago, or having a storm clear way for the sun is a sight to behold. That was what I wanted to capture.

The first of two evenings, there wasn't a cloud in sight, but I went out to the coastline with my gear to do some location scouting. There are a few hiking trails in that part of the island that I quickly found, and I made my way through the trees towards the coast. After scaring a small family of deer, I got to the beach and started looking around. It was a great location, unfortunately the blue sky made it almost useless to photograph. Still, I looked around, and took some snapshots of possible locations for later.

One thing that I did decide to take a photo of that evening was the church. There is a small village church and graveyard on a small hill by the northern side of the island. It wasn't far away, so I walked there along the coast. I quickly found that if I wanted the church visible, there was only one direction I could take the photo from; luckily, the sun was setting in the same direction.

Not my best,  but it's not too shabby.

While taking the picture above I noticed something; I had left my jacket in the car,  and it was getting a bit chilly. So chilly, in fact, that in my hurry to get back to my jacket, I missed focus on a panorama I took from the same location. I took all 35 exposures for the HDR panorama, and I realized they were blurry only the next day. In my defense, I was cold and hungry.

Back at the tent, I first put on some proper clothing, and then cooked some dinner. The storm was supposed to hit the next day, and there was supposed to be partial cloud cover during sunrise. One of the ideas I had for the trip was to take a sunrise pic of the camping ground harbor, so I set my watch for 4:30 and went to bed.

There were dozens of these snails around my tent immediately after the sun went down.

The next morning, I looked out of my tent and decided begrudgingly that the weather forecast was right and that there might be a nice sunrise. I'm not a morning person, at all, but the things I do for photos... After about ten or fifteen minutes of walking through the thick bush I got to a rock overlooking the harbor and the sunrise, and set up my tripod. I still don't really know what I did wrong, but Lightroom and photoshop simply refuse to stitch the photos I took that morning into a nice straight panoramic. I've spent hours on straightening it, and luckily I've gotten it into something that almost resembles reality:

The morning was amazing, though. I sat on a rock by my camera, looking at the clouds rolling in from the right and the sun rising from the left. I have a lot of raw photos from that morning, my hope is that some day I'll bother to process all of them and see if some might be better than the one above. For now, I can't be bothered.

The storm came later that day. It was the biggest storm of the summer, actually. Or so the news said. It missed Kökar completely. We only got some rain with uniform grey skies. Best laid plans, and all that... I spent the day mostly doing nothing, sitting and watching the sea. A few hours later the showers of rain cleared out, so I took the chance and walked out to the beach again. 

Chillin'. If you look closely, you can see a seal's head above my shoe, some way out to sea.

There is something calming about the sea. I could spend hours just sitting and watching it. Well, I did. And I have before. Some time before sunset, I started to look for sunset compositions. I had already photographed the church, so I wasn't that interested in it. Besides, I didn't want anything man-made in my shot. This was going to be a picture of the wast calmness of the outer archipelago at sunset.

Gaps had started to appear in the clouds too, so I had a chance for a great sunset. After changing my composition three times, I set my tripod down, made my camera ready, and waited. The clouds were thickest at the horizon, but there was a small gap just above it. Maybe, with luck, the sun would get through there.

All in all, a nice evening. Even though I didn't get the storm clouds, I was happy I got something. Also, sitting at the beach all day was quite relaxing.

The next morning, it rained. Also, I discovered my tent isn't rainproof anymore. No wonder, it's probably 15 years old at this point. Still, not a happy morning for me. Good thing I had my car with me, it was easy to dump everything in it and pack up the tent. The rain continued for most of the day, but I did manage to take this:

Another rain cloud rolling in.

I was going to go to the beach, but it was raining and I was lazy. The cloud above might have looked great at the correct location... Anyway, that was it for this short trip. The rains continued for the whole trip back, even though they were quite sporadic. On the ferry back to Korpo I took the final image of the trip:

Not quite what I wanted, but it'll do.

All in all a good trip; I didn't get the photo I was planning to, but I did have a few relaxing day out by the sea. And in my book, that's a win.