winter

Re-learning how to see and feel - a year after Norway

It took me a while. Almost a year, in fact. But finally, I’m inspired again. I wake up (way too) early for sunrises, I stare out of the office window longingly for sunsets, and I take some time off a lazy weekend to go outside to shoot some birds in the neighborhood. I have my mojo back. But what happened last year?

After returning from Norway (see the last posts for that one), it took me a long while to go through the photos and write about the trip. I was too tired, too exhausted to think about the trip or the pictures. In fact, it took me months to finish processing and writing. When spring arrived last year, I had no inspiration left. I barely took my camera anywhere. Summer came and went. I took pictures, but I wasn’t feeling it. Everything just seemed ‘meh’. Even images that in hindsight are pretty nice felt like crap at the time. I had lost my way.

Looking at my collection, I have way less pictures from last year than any previous. And most of the pictures I do have are from Norway. How could Finland, and especially my little boring corner of Finland, compare to Lofoten? Thinking on it, having my Lofoten and Senja pictures constantly visible as my laptop screensaver probably didn’t help with the melancholy.

I wish I knew what finally snapped me out of it so I can do that sooner next time. But trying to find images for this post, I remember two moments from last year that stand out. And both involve a random animal encounter. Now, the pictures aren’t very good; I was out of practice and messed up the settings on both. But I did get something.

The first one was in late August and I was out at the cottage. Out of old habit, my camera hang off my shoulder (you never know, right?). I saw a dark spot moving in the corner of my eye, above some reeds. I didn’t see what it was, but it caught my attention so I went to take a closer look. I couldn’t see anything, but three ducks I had seen earlier in the same spot had started panicking. And I knew. I lifted my camera and waited. A minute later, a big harrier (Western marsh harrier to be exact) burst forth from the trees to try to grab a duck. It missed, but I didn’t. Much.

After that day, something in me changed. I slowly started trying again. I drove out to the usual spots a few times in search of sunset colors. The topmost photo is the only decent one of the bunch, but it was something. That wasn’t the second trigger though; that was another chance encounter, a few hundred meters from my apartment building. I was out taking potshots at small birds late in November, during one of the few sunny days we had during the lovely (not really) early winter. I was crouched in a bush, trying to get a few Blackbirds to pose for me beside a small stream that runs through the area, when I saw something I’d never though I’d see in the city. A mink. I don’t know if it was just passing through or if it lives here. I’ve never seen it before, and haven’t seen it since. But I did get a picture.

Winter arrived along with the typical darkness, smothering all hope of taking pictures outside. December in Turku is typically wet, dark and miserable, and this year wasn’t any different. But in January, we got finally got snow. And with the snow and sunny days, I started feeling strange urges. Against my better judgement, during multiple days, I set my alarm clock to ring earlier than it had any right to. I put on a lot of clothes, packed my bag, and went in search for sunrise photos.

Of course, when you actually start trying, you’ll find that nature can be a cruel mistress. I didn’t get light a single time I went out. Those beautiful pink still mornings? Nowhere to be seen. But I can be a bit pigheaded with these things, and took pictures anyway. I worked with what I had. I took my time and thought about composition. I pre-planned locations, times and angle of light. And even though the vast majority of pictures aren’t worthy of an audience, I did it again and again.

I was hoping for 1) mist to cover the back trees or 2) beautiful colors in the sky, or 3) anything. But I learned what works and what doesn’t. And to not rush things.

Going out to try, even though I had no guarantees to get anything, was the best thing I’ve done for myself for a long, long time. Standing on the golf course above, an hour before sunrise, composition ready, waiting for the light, and with such absolute stillness and silence around me is one of the best memories I have of the whole year. It doesn’t matter that the pictures didn’t turn out the way I wanted; I still have something to remember the experience with. And I think all that practice taught me a few things.

Oftentimes, as much as you plan, you don’t get anything. Sometimes, you get something completely different to what you expect. A very, very cold day late January I took a good friend skiing to a nearby nature reserve. Turns out it’s no fun skiing in almost -20 degrees, so I only had about one and a half hour for my own thing. The plan was to take a panorama of the snow-covered marsh, with a snow-covered forest as a wall in the distance. A simple but effective image that represents the Finnish winter perfectly. I ended up getting distracted pretty quickly. And I’m glad I did.

These sort of crystals only form when it’s very cold. I typically don’t have extension tubes with me, but this time I did. And I definitely did not notice the out of focus reflection until I lined up the twig in my viewfinder. But as soon as I saw it, the training kicked in; I must’ve spent 10 minutes just lining up the branch, my tripod and the background. I took dozens of pictures with different focus and different apertures to get what I wanted. I knocked the branch multiple times, making me wait for it to stop swinging. I was so worried I had destroyed the ice crystals each and every time i messed up. But I didn’t. And I produced a proper Photograph, for the first time in almost a year.

After that photo, it feels like the flood gates have opened. I go out multiple times a week. I think about composition, I plan ahead and I make sure I’m not rushed. I’ve found a calmness I can’t remember having, ever. Luckily, that also works well with the Finnish winter. I feel like I’ve been able to capture the cold serenity I experienced. Not by chance, but skill.

But the pictures aren’t the point. What’s way, way more important is I now reserve time for myself, to be outside, to enjoy nature once again. I don’t care that there aren’t any mountains, any fjords, any racing rivers. I can appreciate the nature around me for what it is. The pictures from the last few weeks are some of the best I have ever taken. But they are nothing compared to once again having opened my eyes and seeing the world around me. I hope I never loose that again.

Senja and Lofoten, part 10: All good things...

When I woke up the next day and looked outside, I was met with very gray skies. I felt a bit down, but mostly relieved; I had gotten out the morning before and got some amazing images. Now I could sleep in and not feel disappointed with myself for not getting out. 

During the night, the snow had come rolling in. What was just a cloud bank on the horizon was now thick clouds with occasional snowfall, adding more fresh snow to the already impressive amount. I was in no hurry anywhere. It was my last full day, and I had a very early start the next day. I ate a good breakfast and packed down most of my stuff that I didn't need. I decided to drive around a bit just to scout the area. I knew there was no photos to be had, but at least I'd have a record of the area for next time.

A good sunrise location, just not today.

Ytresand beach.

I tried to find inspiration to take some photos that day. I really did. But I was tired. I had been on the trip for 11 days now, and I was really feeling it. The location was still as beautiful as ever, and the weather wasn't all that bad, but I just kind of gave up. It was enough. There is only so much travel and photography I can do during a trip. One final location, and I was done.

Beach on the road to Myrland. I wish I was here earlier.

As another patch of snow started coming down, I snapped the final image of the trip. The location was great, the rest wasn't.

The drive home was long. Apart from some GoPro time lapse, I don't have any footage from either day. Nothing really happened either; the weather was good, the roads were excellent (especially the Swedish ones), and I just kept driving. In hindsight, I'd probably do the same trip in three days next time, especially the return drive. It took me days to recover from the driving, and weeks to recover from the trip itself.

Home, at last. 5223 kilometers, by far the longest trip I've ever done by car.

So, was it worth it?

For once, I don't know. I really don't want to complain, but there is one really big issue with the trip after I've been home for a few months. I'm completely fed up with landscape photography, and photography in general. It's now been three months since I came back, and I've taken my camera out of the bag once during that time. I think it was too much. The utter, absolute, amazing crazy place I spent many days in spoiled me really, really badly. I look out my window at home, and I don't see a single mountain. There's no fjords, no solitude, no deserted beaches, and no eagles anywhere.

It's taken me this long to process all my images, and I still have over 200 GB of time lapse footage left; I have no idea when I'll have the energy to finish that. I'm sure I will get around to it eventually, but it still feels I need a break. My summer vacations are coming up in a month or so, I will probably try something then; I've been thinking about some intimate woodland landscapes this time around. Maybe that'll work out, maybe it wont. Time will tell.

I'm sure I will go back to Lofoten. I want to see how it looks without snow and ice. It feels like I barely scratched the surface of what you can see and experience in the region, and now that I've been there, I know where to head next and what regions to concentrate on. But the return trip will have to wait. For now, I have the images, and more importantly, the memories to remind me of that superlative, magical place. They remind me of how incredibly lucky I am to be able to visit such a paradise.

Senja and Lofoten, part 4: Exploring Senja and the Northern Lights, part deux

Sometimes planning results in an awkward situation. Take Senja for instance; according to the maps, no location would work for sunrise. The reason? Every single mountain range was in the wrong position and/or direction so that the sunrise wouldn't hit it. I was also staying on the west coast, which meant that I couldn't photograph the sunrise itself either.

Now, I could have went out anyway. I'm sure the island has some lovely locations that I could've found. But I didn't. It pains me to say it, but I felt lazy; I was in the most awesome location I've ever been in, and I didn't put in the effort. Instead, I looked through the images from the evening before, to continue the learning process of photographing auroras. I also spent quite some time to make sure I had a sunset location, and trying again to find a sunrise location for the next morning. When I finally headed out, the sun was high in the sky. Luckily there was some light cloud cover to diffuse the light a bit.

There was basically two directions I could go; south or northeast. Even though the distances aren't that long, the small and icy roads mean that it takes a fair amount of time to get from one end of the island to the other. This day, I decided to explore southward, starting with the village of Torsken (literally translated to The Codfish. Yes, it's a fishing village, how did you guess?).

From mid-day to sunset. And yes, that is the only road from one to the other.

The area is truly beautiful. Steep cliffs with empty beaches of sand or rock, covered in snow and ice. I took it easy, stopping often and just wandering around with my camera. As I explored, I took note on how sparsely built this region really is. In villages, the houses are almost touching each other, but of course there aren't that many of them in total. Outside the villages, the houses are few and far between, and all of them are built along the single road. There are no houses or roads on any of the hills, most of them don't even have any trails. Which is fair enough, I can only image the cost of building roads up here. In the end, it makes for a truly pristine landscape. You'll have no trouble at all finding images without any man-made object in them.

View from the village of Torsken. The mountains in the background are the very northern-most parts of the Lofoten islands.

Dappled light on the mountains.

Gryllefjord

I spent half an hour walking around the western-most point of Gryllefjord. Not that the village was anything special in itself, there just happened to be a good parking spot with some nice views. Also, an eagle flew by.

The blue and white color theme is going to be prevalent today :)

You know what's annoying? Not getting your settings correct. I was in a hurry to change lenses and settings, and missed one of the most important ones; the shutter speed is too low. You can clearly see the whole bird is blurry. There is no way of fixing that in post. Damnit.

When I collect cod heads, I'll put them on display too.

I started getting a bit hungry, so it was time for some lunch. And what better than to match that with some location scouting? I'd driven past a nice-looking beach a few times now, but I wasn't sure how it looked up close or how the sun would hit during different times of the day. But first things first:

Outdoor lunch, best lunch.

At this time of year the beach is in shade almost all day, unfortunately. The tide was going out and the receding water had left behind some great detail in the ice. But when there is no light, there isn't, so I decided to move on after taking a proof of concept shot.

Ballesvika (I'm not going to translate that). Shame about the light, this good image could have been an epic image.

The only thing left after the (admittedly very late) lunch was to get to my sunset location in Flakstad. The drive took me through a snow-covered valley, a long tunnel, and a serpentine road down to the water; it's pretty much a minified version of my whole experience of Senja. Once at Flakstad, it didn't take me long to find the composition; a beach, a rock, and a sun-lit mountain worked a treat.

I drove back to my cabin, pleased with the day so far. Of course, I hadn't checked the eagle pictures for sharpness yet... Prioritizing food over processing photos, I made dinner and checked the aurora forecast. It was up from a 2 the day before to a 3. Well then, no rest for the weary.

I had chosen my aurora location so that I'd get some better foreground (underground?) since the photos from the day before had a nice sky, but were pretty meh in the land-part of the landscape. My cabin was very close to the idyllic hotel of Hamn i Senja, that looks great during the day. I was thinking that I'd have that as the bottom part of the picture, with auroras dancing overhead. There was even a convenient place to park my car; during night-time the road was pretty much deserted, so I didn't mind occupying a passing place on a straight bit on the road (never, ever do that in a corner!). Once I'd set up, I took the first shots with my new-found foreground. What I hadn't noticed what that there was something else in frame as well.

Yes, that's the milky way.

The auroras were clearly not out in full force yet. The ribbon stayed in place and was quite faint when seen through human eyes; so I waited. And waited. While I waited, I tried a vertical composition too. The aurora covered pretty much half of the night sky, so I could shoot as wide as I wanted and still get the green. One thing that I was starting to notice though was that my lens (Tamron 15-30mm f2.8) isn't parfocal. That means that every time I changed the focal length, it lost focus. And let me tell you, focusing in pitch black is a nightmare, especially since the focus marker on the lens isn't accurate. A few mm on the focus ring is enough to throw the whole shot out of focus, and you wont notice until you look closely after the fact:

The way I did it in the end, was to turn on live view and find a light source. In the photo above it was easy, since the lights in Hamn were easy to find even though the screen was mostly black. Then I zoomed all the way in on the light and manually turned the focus ring so the light was as sharp as I could get it, and then not touch the focus again until I changed my composition. If I accidentally touched the zoom ring, I had to do the same thing over again.

After two hours of taking the same picture over and over again, I had enough and decided to change position. So I drove to the island of Hamn itself and found a dark corner looking northward (the direction the above shots are taken). The aurora had dissipated a bit at this point, so the images were not very good at all, especially when I had even less foreground here than I had earlier.

The aurora picked a good place on the horizon to land, at least.

A half an hour of this and I was done. The clearly wasn't going to be any action, the clock was nearing 1 am. I picked up my tripod and started heading back to the car. I turned a corner at the cabins where I had hidden from the harbor lights, and saw what was the craziest aurora I'd ever seen. It looked as if the sky was on fire. The aurora danced around, changing form by the second. You could actually see the rays falling from space as they painted their own color streaks on the night sky. I wish I could say I caught it on camera. By the time I had my camera down and a composition ready and focused, the aurora had switched again, now being straight on top of me. I just could not keep up. Even my settings were wrong; the 10-20 second exposure I'd used earlier was way too slow, making the beautiful, stark rays of the aurora into a green muddy mess. In short, I was so awestruck that I was caught completely off guard. Of the hundred pictures I took, only three turned out good in the end, and they did not capture the absolutely stunning display I had seen.

I know this looks crazy. But this was taken AFTER the real action, when I'd gotten my bearings.

6 seconds of crazy.

The display only lasted 15 minutes or so, after which the aurora quickly faded away. I was cold and tired, and my head was still spinning. Although I was exhausted, I didn't get much sleep that night. 

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